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Date |
Event |
06/07/2003
4 hrs
Suspension |
We are back after the wedding in Finland.
Time to re-familiarise me with the project. I finished painting the
alternator and the inner wishbone pivots for the rear suspension. I took
some time to examine the rear suspension, font wishbones and uprights to
determine what parts I need to order to refurbish them before I can fit hem
to the chassis. Then I dismantled the font left upper wishbone and upright,
cleaning them and putting them in the anti rust bath. I have made a list of
the parts I need to order. I’m trying to get as much at one go as I can to
save on the carriage charge. The bench press came in to it’s own today
making short work or pressing out the stub axle. I would definitely have
struggled without it. |
20/07/2003
5hrs
Suspension |
I have continued to de-rust and clean up
both front and rear suspension components. This part of the work seems slow
but the end result should be worth it. It takes time for the de-rusting
fluid to work, but cleans the components back to bear metal. From
experience it is best to, first, clean the component with a rotary wire
brush and then to degrease it with a solvent or gunk. Place the component in
a tray filled diluted (9:1) “Hammerite” de-rusting fluid. Remove after 24
hours and remove any deposits with a wire brush. If necessary re-immerse in
the fluid to remove stubborn rust deposits. You may need to repeat several
times for heavily corroded components. Eventually you will get back to
clean bare metal. Wash the component in clean water, scrub with a wire
brush to remove any last deposits, further degrease the component and as
soon as possible after it is dry paint it, to protect it. I tend to use an
etching primer followed by “Hammerite anti rust paint. (Satin Black Smooth
Finish). One disadvantage of the Hammerite paint is that 2nd /
3rd coats must be applied within 1.5 hours. After that, the paint
has started to cure and can not be recoated for 6 weeks. I use the spray can
version of the paint. Rather than the brush on stuff since it is easier to
use and gives a better finish. It does require several coats to give the
same level of protection as the brush on finish. The front left upper and
lower wishbones and the upright are almost finished. I’ve taken many
photographs and made copious notes on the fitting and position of various
shims for caster angle, Camber angle adjustments. I’ve ordered new bushes
and bearings for all of the suspension components I just seemed prudent to
change them now while I have easy access and as part of the build process.
The hydraulic press proved invaluable in removing the front stub axles.
These are fitted to the uprights by a tapered shaft and a single bolt. I’ve
no doubt that I would have struggled to remove these involving heating them
up and much hammering. The hydraulic press, pushed them out (with a bang)
at about 2 tonnes pressure, easy!
|
23/07/2003
5hrs
Suspesnion |
Inspecting the RH front suspension
components that were de-rusting in the bath (not literally) I was slightly
dissatisfied with the finish. I was getting back to bare metal but it was
more pitted and still showing signs of corrosion. I changed the
de-rusting fluid for fresh and gave them a further 24hr soak. This improved
the situation but I decided to modify the finishing approach by painting
them with “Kurust” to make sure and kill any remaining corrosion before
using the etching primer. So today, was again a suspension cleaning
and painting day. I ended up with upper wishbones, uprights and
wishbone pivots, painted in etching primer, that look no different
from the LHS but I feel they are better protected against future corrosion.
I refitted the alternator and the fuel injectors to the engine.
|
25/07/2003
2hrs
Suspension
|
I finished painting the RH front upper
wishbone and upright. Cleaned the lower wishbone and steering arm and
returned them to the de-rusting fluid for the last time.
|
26/07/2003
5hrs
Rear hubs
Drive Shafts
|
Cleaned the RH lower wishbone and Steering
arm, Rear Suspension inner fulcrum distance tubes with the Dremel and wire
brush. Painted them with Hammerite Kurust to finally kill any corrosion.
Late this afternoon gave them a coat of etching primer. The major work
today was to remove the UJ’s from the rear hubs and final drive flanges.
This needed to be done so that the final drive / Rear hub flanges can be
cleaned and painted. I Removed the circlips that retained the UJ caps.
Make sure you remove the grease nipples too Otherwise they get in the way
and there is a possibility of damaging them. I knew how UJ’s were to be
driven out, having removed the other side of the UJ from the drive.
However, It took a little while to work out the best way of supporting them
and the best way to drive them out. Supporting the UJ between 2 pieces of
wood and tapping the final drive/ hub flange with a soft hammer until the
caps were flush with the outside of the flange, proved to be a good way to
start. This gives you a little more freedom of movement when you finally
separate the UJ from the Flange. It is advisable to do this to start with
because as the opposite side cap is driven out it is possible for the needle
rollers to fall inwards under the UJ shaft at best it only restrict the UJ
shaft movement at worst it can prevent the cap from being driven out without
damaging the needle rollers. Then with the UJ still supported between the
pieces of wood drive out the cap a hammer and a Ľ square drift by tapping
down on the flange which causes the UJ to push the cap out of the flange. A
little care and patience is needed because the nature of the UJ means it is
not rigidly supported. Also makes sure you drive out the cap that is
opposite the grease nipple. It is easier to do it this way because the land
where the grease nipple fits restricts you from driving out the cap
completely. Once the cap is free slide the UJ up and out of the opposite
retaining cap. Carefully remove all the needle rollers and keep the rollers
and caps from each side together. Bag each side separately and label them,
so that you can match them up again on reassembly. If there is any sign of
wear replace the UJ. You may have to replace the UJ anyway. During the
removal of 2 of my UJ’s The seal on the Cruciform side of the UJ got
damaged, in the process of driving out the caps. It is easily done if the
seals are old. The seals get driven out, through the flange, with the cap.
These seals are not available separately you have to buy a whole UJ.
|
27/07/2003
4hrs
Rear Hubs |
Another cleaning and painting day. Cleaned
up the de-rusted final drive & hub flanges. Degreased and stripped off any
remaining paint. Treated them with “Kurust” to neutralize any remaining
rust. Kurust turns any rust it comes in to contact with black.
Surprisingly, though the flanges have been stripped back to bright metal
with no visible sign of corrosion, the Kurust turns most of the flanges
black. Left them to dry. Painted the remaining parts of the right front
suspension with Hammerite paint. At the end of the day I returned to
painting the flanges with etching primer.
|
28/07/2003
2hrs
Final
Drive |
Just a short session today to finish
painting the RH final drive & hub flanges. The suspension refurbishment
stuff I ordered from SNG Barrett arrived today – At Last! It is still not
complete but I have sufficient to make a start. I’m missing the fulcrum
pins and the rear suspension fulcrum repair kit. I spent a little while
re-acquainting myself with the rear suspension and final drive assemblies.
I found the Haynes manual useful, but the photographs I have taken were
really useful in studying the detail and relating this to the new chassis.
|
29/07/2003
2hrs
Bolts |
I felt sure I would mark today as a turning
point and start fitting some of the components back together. I identified
all the new front suspension bushes and was getting ready to fit them only
to realise there were a number of bolts from the XJ6 which needed to be
cleaned and de-rusted before I could use them. I bought a rolling chassis
fitting kit with the chassis which has provided some of the special bolts
and most of the nuts. I dumped the bolts and some of the special washers in
the de-rusting bath and will have to be patient for the next 24 hours.
|
30/07/2003
2 hrs.
Differential |
The day has finally arrived – Let building
commence! Greg came over and we fitted the differential to the chassis.
Later I fitted the rear inner wishbone carriers to the diff. Again the
photographs taken during dismantling came in useful There are 4 holes in
the carriers to line up with 2 holes in the differential casting. I could
not remember which pair of holes was used on the XJ6. The photographs came
to the rescue, once fitted it was obvious which holes to use. I torque
tightened the 4 bolts securing the diff to the upper mounting plate on the
chassis (75 ft lbf). You need a slim line socket and torque wrench to get at
the front ones because there is insufficient room between the bolt and the
chassis rail. The rear ones are easy. The wishbone carriers have shims
between the carrier and the differential. I had noted their position and
thickness when dismantling them; LHS. 1 x 0.007” behind each bolt. RHS. 2 x
0.007” behind each bolt. They seem to serve no useful purpose their
thickness making little difference to camber or track. Nevertheless, I
bought some new ones but I miscalculated the number I needed. However I was
able to fit shims of the correct size to the LHS (0.007”) and combine 2
shims (0.007” +0.005”) to make 0.012”. So the RHS is 0.002” short. I will
check it at suspension setting time but I can’t believe it will make an
significant difference. Torque tightened the carrier to differential bolts
to 60 ft lbf. Wire locked the differential mounting and wishbone carrier
bolts The last part of the day was spent working out where and how the rest
of the differential plates fit. |
31/07/2003
2hrs.
Drive Shafts |
The new drive shaft universal joints
arrived yesterday but are unpainted. I could leave them, but they will show
signs of rust quickly once in road use. I would be dissatisfied with that so
I have painted them with etching primer and “Hammerite” black paint to match
the chassis, which should give them a little more protection. I have
tested the bench press by fitting one of the bushes the front lower
wishbone. I used a smear of copper slip inside the bush housing and on the
bush, carefully lined up the bush, the wishbone and the press mandrel,
pumped up the hydraulic pressure and in it went. It was so easy, I managed
to push the bush through too far but by turning the wishbone over and using
a suitable socket to go over the bush and bear down on the wishbone I was
easily able to push it back and centralise the bush in its housing. When I
think of how we struggled, on the
Westfield, with long bolts, penny
washers and nuts to achieve the same thing I am more than pleased I bought
the press. I continued cleaning up the washers and bolts for the front
upper wishbone before I refit them.
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Total
hours this month =
33 hrs |
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Total hours to date =
319 hrs |
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