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Date |
Event |
01/08/2003
2.5hrs
Front
Supension |
Fitted the front lower and upper wishbone
bushes. I smeared the inside of the bush housings with copper slip, like
wise the bushes. The upper wishbone bushes can easily be pressed in by hand.
The lower wishbone bushes need the hydraulic press to fit them. This is a
bit of a balancing job to keep the press, bush and wishbone aligned whilst
resting on the press bed. It can be done. It is easier, as I found out, to
use a socket underneath the wishbone. The socket needs to be slightly larger
than the bush and fit centrally up against the bush housing. I used a ⅞ BS /
¾ W socket. Place the socket on the flat bed of the press. The wishbone
housing centrally on top of the socket. Align the bush and the press with
the housing and socket and apply the pressure. The bush will slide in
easily. Keep applying pressure until the bush is protruding an equal amount
from each side of the wishbone. Investigated the fitting of the uprights
and came to the conclusion that the Haynes manual is wrong. The upright is
shown with the calliper mountings pointing forward. Referring to the
photographs I had taken during dismantling of the XJ6 shows they should
point rearward. The cleaning up of the bolts and washers that need to be
reused during assembly continues. I finally got round to getting some
washers from “Unimaster” to finish fitting the power steering pump bypass
pipe. On their advice I added a couple of extra “Dowty” washers (3 in all)
and tightened up the union and the pipe. Let’s hope it is oil tight when it
is time to run the engine.
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03/08/2003
4hrs
Flywheel
Drive Shafts |
Painted the front upper wishbone washers to
protect them now that they are de-rusted. Fitted the upper fulcrum bushes
these care easily fitted by hand. Got the flywheel out of the de-rusting
fluid. Cleaned it up with wire brushes. Degreased it with gunk. The front
face is scored but not too badly. I’ll put off a decision to have it skimmed
until after my holiday. Assembled the Left drive shaft. The bench press
made easy work of assembling the universal joints. It also facilitated easy
dismantling when I had some difficulties seating one end caps to get the
retaining circlips in place. You learn by experience and I now know I should
have used the press to dismantle the drive shafts rather than follow the
Haynes manual. It is possible I would not have damaged the oil seals and had
to replace the UJ’s. As it is, the left drive shaft is complete with new UJ’s and the Right one has the UJ fitted to the final drive flange.
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18/08/2003
2hrs
Drive
Shafts |
Completed rebuild of RH drive shaft.
Replaced Flywheel in the de-rusting fluid since it had shown some signs of
new rust whilst we were on holiday. The fluid in the dishes de-rusting the
bolts, washers and camber shims dried out and needed to be replaced.
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19/082003
2hrs
Front Suspension |
Rebuilt left front upper wishbone with new
ball joint, caster shims and bushes.
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20/08/2003
5 hrs.
Front Suspension |
Rebuilt left front upright with new lower
ball joint. The ball joint kit came with a new top cup. I removed the old
one with a combination of drift / hammer and press. The new one was tapped
in with a drift. The assembled ball joint was too loose using the 3 shims
provided. I removed one and this seems to be ok. Temporarily fitted new
stub axle. Investigated suspension geometry, particularly the camber shims.
Left side components are almost ready to be fitted to the chassis. Started
to rebuild the right upright. Fitted the new lower ball joint this was very
stiff and seized when assembled. I was concerned about the number of shims
(using some of the old ones as well) that I had to fit to obtain free
movement. Disassembled it again pressed out the top cup and compared it
with the old one. There was no apparent difference. Refitted the top cup
using the hydraulic press. Reassembled the ball joint. This time it was
better though I still needed to fit 4 additional shims to obtain free
movement. I think I will reinvestigate this tomorrow. I’ve just taken a
look at the stiffness of the upper ball joints (which is pre-built and
sealed for life) These are stiffer than the lower ones I have built. I need
to think about this. I can always take a shim or two out if necessary as
wear takes place.
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21/08/2003
2 hrs
Front Suspension |
Most of the time today I was trying to
discover why I needed so many shims in the right upright to get free
movement of the lower ball joint. I suspected that the upper cup was not
fully fitted or skewed. Comparing measurements with the left ball joint
indicated this to be true. Disassembled the ball joint again and removed
the cup. Refitted the cup using the hydraulic press and an oversize socket
to support the upright and a approx correct socket to press on. This seemed
to improve matters but we are only looking for a few thousands of an inch.
Reassembling the upright showed only a slight improvement. To eliminate the
cup from the problem I took it all to pieces again and fitted the old cup.
This made no improvement either. So it was back to the new one. I decided
to sleep ion it.
Fitted the grease nipples with new copper
washers in place of the nylon ones. I found it gave a better seal.
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22/08/2003
3hrs
Front Suspension |
I began disassembling the left upright and
measuring the depth of the cup from the machine face. Comparing this with
the right upright show almost no difference so I concluded the cup is full
home and the difference is caused by manufacturing tolerances of the upright
or ball joint combination. I reassembled both joints and accepted that one
has more shims than the other. If the right one wears or beds in, I can
remove shims to correct the problem. Reassembled the right upper wishbone.
Lubricating all fulcrum washers and bushes with copper slip. Fitted the
upper ball joint but it was necessary to open out one of the bolt holes in
the wishbone with a file to insert the bolts through the wishbone and ball
joint. Greased the ball joint.
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25/08/2003
3 hrs
Rear Suspension
Geometry |
Fitted 3/8 UNF bolts to the right lower
wishbone to fill where the original coil spring pan had fitted . I had to
tap one of the holes because the top of the thread had been stripped during
the removal of the XJ6 coil spring. I didn’t have a tap of the correct size
so I went to see John Hopkins and he did have one so we completed the job
there. John is also going to look at whether his lathe is capable of
skimming the flywheel. After investigating the detail of the drive shaft
camber shims I fitted the rear brake discs and shimmed them and the drive
shafts with new shims the same as originally fitted to the XJ6. The left
side has 2 shims between the diff and the brake disc and 3 shims between the
brake disc and the drive shaft. On the RHS the shims are 2 between the
diff and the brake disc and 4 between the brake disc and the drive shaft.
This should centralise the brake calliper when fitted and provide the right
camber angle. All this will need rechecking at suspension set up time but
should be in the correct ball park. Finally I played with the front
suspension upper wishbone mounts. Nostalgia advises using the triangular
washers and shims from the original XJ6. SNG Barratt, provided me with new
camber shims that are round and thicker. I have decided to use the new
ones. I’m sure that fitting the suspension to a new chassis will mean
entirely different suspension geometry and hence will need different shims
at set up time.
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Total
hours this month = 23½ hrs |
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Total hours to date = 342½
hrs |
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