September 2004

Date Event

5 hrs



After the Conference at Warwick University last week and the annual NHS Flu Campaign this week, at last I was able to get back to doing some work on fitting the rear body shell.  The past two weeks had not been unproductive.  My discussions with Nostalgia had made me realise I was trying to be too accurate, measurement wise, in fitting the body. The overall look of the body position as being correct was what was needed.  During the discussion with Chris Boyer I got a better feel for how tight the body should be to the rear of the doors when in position.  I  had positioned the body shell such that the inner panel was just in line with the bottom of the chassis rail. This looked much more correct than the position I had achieved earlier. The front of the shell was very tight against the back of the doors. The shell was held in place against the chassis rail  by 2 "G" clamps each side. I had marked, using masking tape, the inner face of the chassis rail according to fig 2-15a. Selecting the centre of these marks I adjusted the position of the body shell until I had approx 215mm between the top of the chassis rail and the inner lip of the boot aperture. (Recommended distance is 210  mm). I felt it more important to get them, as near as possible,  the same whist maintaining a good overall position for the body. This seemed to be the best solution and in keeping with the Nostalgia view that as long as the body looked OK at the back it was good enough. I worked out that the 9 spire bolts for fixing the shell to the chassis was approx 4", centres to get the best coverage and offer the best security for the shell. The 10th bolt is inserted at the forward end of the chassis by the fuel tank mounting.  all of hits was pretty easy to do until I managed to twist the head off of  on of the front spire bolt. I don't know why it happened it was not because of over tightening, because more that 2/3 of the bolt was left sticking out of the chassis. It was just time consuming to remove the body on one side and then remove the remains of the bolt. That done, the body was finally secured in place.



2 hrs

"B" Post

Yesterday I started to fit the "B" Post. Fairly early in I realised that I did not understand the build manual with regard to positioning the "B" post in relation to the door, the rear wing and the rear body section.  Rather than make a mistake I waited until today and rang Nostalgia. Chris Boyer, talked me through the fitting and I realised that I had not understood that the return on the "B" post that rivets to the rear body shell fits inside the body shell.  The build manual does not make it clear and It was not obvious to me from the drawings.  Further discussion with Chris about the fitting of the rear wings has given me the details  I need to go ahead.   Realising I was fitting the "B" post incorrectly now made sense of the instruction in the build manual  "to to trim the  body shell to make the "B" post a snug fit".   Similarly  I realised in my conversation with Chris that I had misunderstood where and by how much the rear wing needed to be trimmed . I believe the trimming principally needs to be done at the front of the wing to match the contour of the rear body shell at the top of the door aperture. I  marked the front body shell on the passenger side and checked the approximate dimensions with Chris. Starting at 20mm at the bottom, front of the inner body panel  and tapering off to 0 mm at the top of the body shell Tomorrow I will trim it back until I get the correct fit for the "B" Post.  It is probably better to trim off slightly less than this and then take more off if necessary to get the best fit.



"B" Post

I have had an enforced pause over the past 10 days. Mary had all the preparations for  doing the flowers for a friend's daughters wedding and I and the Land Rover got roped in to do our bit. Plus we were invited to the wedding.  Also work has been hectic with the annual flu vaccination campaign to organise.  However the pause was to good effect because it made me stop and think about fitting the "B" post. I had ended up with the rear body shell trimmed and ready to cut. I decided that I would trim the body shell at the first point where I had marked it to coincide with the line of the of where the body shell met the doors> I could always take more off as necessary.  I cut the shell with a combination of a cutting wheel in the Dremel and a pad saw to finish it off.   I  smoothed the edge with sandpaper wrapped around a wooden block.  Whilst working out if I needed to trim more off the shell, because the "B" Post was fouling the door, I contacted Chris Bowyer at the Factory.  I realised from the discussion I was trying to be too accurate and compensate for too may variables again.  What I was really trying to achieve was that the "B" when fitted would follow the line determined by the top of the rear body shell.  Trimming the rear body shell was just a means of achieving that the position of top of the "B" post was flush with the face and following the line of the body shell.  Once the rear wings were in place it would pull back the "B" post to clear the back of the door.   I positioned the "B" past to follow the line, packed the underside between the "B" post and the chassis  with hardboard up to 7mm. Clamped the "B" post to the rear body shell rechecking the position. Drilled through them both  at the top front of the "B" post return plate and fastened with a splay rivet and plain washer.  The head of the rivet is in the inside of the body shell.  I then clamped the "B" post to the mounting pillar on the chassis and drilled through the  slots  in to the "B" post. I temporarily fastened the "B" post to the mounting pillar with 1/4 UNF bolts, washers and nuts.  The final position is going to be determined by the rear wing but there is plenty of adjustment, in all directions, on the pillar to take in to account most positions.


Total hours this month = 9.0 hrs

  Total hours to date = 807.5 hrs