September 2003

Date Event





Final Drive

Wire locking


Front Hub / wishbones

This week I’ve stood still or even taken a pace backwards. Previously I had fitted the drive shafts and rear brake discs.  I had wire locked the diff  in place and the fulcrum brackets to each  side of the diff -  I was not happy with the end result , also the end plates on the diff are held on with 5 bolts. Jaguar ( in the shape of BL) wire locked these bolts with single strand of wire running through all 5 bolts and joined with a twist.  My aircraft training was screaming at me that this was not acceptable and my experience of SVA doubted that the VI would find it acceptable either. I got some 1mm locking wire from “Unimaster”. Simple enough, remove the drive shafts and brake discs cut the wire and re-wire it with double strands twisted together. At the 3rd attempt, having rejected the 1st because it was not neat enough; broken the wire on the 2nd , I decided the wire locking is like soldering or welding You need to do it regularly to make a good job of it.  Not that any of it was dangerous or unsafe but it looked untidy or not quite right.  Practice makes perfect, I researched the internet  for tips on wire locking and found nothing. I changed my tactic to search for safety wiring and came up with a “gold mine” It didn’t tell me any more than I already knew but  did confirm that the wire locking done by Jaguar was acceptable.  However I was not satisfied and persevered with the twin stand method. Eventually, I lost count of the number of scrapped, I managed to safely wire all 5 bolts. I refitted the drive shafts and brake disks taking care to equalize shims on the RHS to ensure the brake disk runs central to the calliper.

SNG Barratt finally delivered the inner fulcrum repair kits,  Stub axle securing nuts and the front lower wishbone fulcrum pins.  I fitted the stub axles to the uprights and torque tightened them. I did a trial fit of the left front wishbones and upright using one of the old fulcrum pins.   It checked out the fitting process however when I tried to use one of the new pins I fond it would not fit because it was oversize.


5 hours.

Front fulcrum Pins

What to do about the oversize pins. I thought, at first that the overspray of chassis paint in the guide tube was the problem, but I had cleaned and cleared this when fitting the old fulcrum pin. I also thought it could be the cadmium plating on the pins.  So I removed the plating with wet and dry but the pins were still too big for the bushes and the guide tube. I consulted John Hopkins, because I was concerned at the amount of material I needed to remove and still keep the shaft of the pins circular and parallel, John measured the difference between old and new as 0.003”. He also loaned me some medium grade emery tape. There was nothing for it but to reduce the pins by holding them in a vice and pulling the emery tape back and forward across the pins.  I measured the old pins with a vernier gauge and worked carefully with the emery tape and wet and dry paper until I had a good interference fit with the gauge, the bushes and the tube.  It took about 1.5 hours per pin. Following this I fitted the upper and lower front wishbones to the chassis, finally touching up the paintwork that had been damaged during the fitting process.


2 hours

Front Uprights

Today I realised the 4th September had slipped past without me noticing the significance. Just 1 year has passed since we bought the XJ6, Doesn’t time fly when you are having fun.  I fitted the front uprights and nipped them up just to hold them in place. Part way through I realised I had not cleaned the overspray from the taper holes where the ball joint pins locate. Luckily I had not gone too far and was able to undo them and clean them out.   With the front wishbones and uprights in place the chassis is beginning to take shape. Started work in the rear wishbones. Sorted out the inner fulcrum repair kit taking note of the replacement parts and the order in which they fit.  Also I identified which bits to retain and clean for refitting the wishbone.



Rear Wishbones

I fitted the needle roller bearings to the rear left wishbone. Firstly clean out any overspray paint in bearing holes in the journal. Lightly grease the seat and cages with copper slip  Tap them in flush with the face from each side with a soft faced (nylon / plastic) hammer, I ensured they were flush by pulling them in using two large washers and an M10 bolt passed through the centre and tightened until they were flush.  Grease the bearings, shaft , spacers, seals, seal retainers and thrust washers (I used Castrol LM. Assemble the seals, retainers and spacers, thrust washers on the wishbone. This is a bit of a juggling act but the grease helps to hold them in place. Offer up the assembly to the diff mounting bracket. Take care not to disturb the seals and washers. Pass the shaft through the assembly the brackets the centre distance piece and it’s fitted.  At least that is what is supposed to happen in theory. It is possible to do all this single handed but is much easier if you have a 2nd pair of hands,  In practice the assembly is a tight fit. Make sure you put the centre distance piece in place between the diff / wishbone mounting bosses first. It is a loose interference fit but will stay in place while you fit the assembly.  The wishbone is a tight fit on the diff mounting it is unlikely you will slip it over the mounting with all the thrust washers in place.  Leave the innermost thrush washer off will give you room to manoeuvre. With the assembly in place pass the shaft through the first journal, through the mounting and in to the distance tube. You can do this by hand or it may need a very gentle tap with a soft hammer. Stop must before the shaft enters the far side journal. The assembly will hang there and you have hands free to concentrate on slipping the thrust washer between the journal and the mounting. You might need to give it a gentle tap to slide it in to position. Ensure you have all the seals and spacers lined up and assembly is in line with the shaft, Now tap the shaft in to position.




Rear Wishbones

Fitted the Right rear wishbone as above. I tightened the wishbones up to test the alignment and the clearances. The outer oil seal retainers are not tight. It looks like something is misaligned, possibly the bearing spacers I will need to investigate.



5 hrs


Rear Wishbones


I lost count of the number of times I checked and rechecked the fitting of the left rear wishbone.  I trial fitted the NC diff mounting plates and brackets but was still dissatisfied with the fitting of the seal retainers.  I dismantled it all again and tried one last time to improve the fitting.  I measured the length of an old bearing spacer and ground a little off of a new one using a flat grindstone. I don’t think this had any affect. I resolved to carefully fit the wishbone and bearings again making sure that the inner thrust washers were fully engaged on the bearing spacer. I fitted the NC brackets once again, tightening up the pivot bolts sufficiently to align the brackets and measure any free play in the seals retainers. There was still some free play but I decided to accept this. There was probably sufficient dirt and stuff in the ones I removed from the XJ6 to mask any free play there was originally.  I drilled and bolted the NC diff brackets to the boomerang bar. Torque tightened all the mounting bolts.




Front Brakes

Cleaned up the front brake deflector plates. Dismantled the front hubs for refurbishment. Examined the front suspension mounting kit. Cleaned up the anti roll bar mountings. Placed alongside the front brake cover plates in the de-rusting solution. The left front hub was a bit difficult to remove the bearing cages from the hub. The seal removing tool was useful .It made the removal of the oil seals easy but damaged the seals in the process. I have replacement seals so it is OK.  Cleaned up the front hubs with a wire brush and placed in de-rusting fluid





Continued cleaning and de-rusting the front hubs and brake disc covers, Trial fitted the front and rear shocks. Looks like I need some extra bushes.





Shock Absobers

I contacted Malcolm Rolfe a couple of days ago about the bushes. It seems there are 4 bushes in the upper mounts of the rear shocks on the XJ6 which should be used. I thought I had saved these but I can’t find them, so maybe not.  Replacements from NC cost £5.00 each!!!.  I did a thorough search of all the boxes of bits from the XJ6 but I could not find any.  I took a trip to Berkshire Bearings in Newbury but whilst they could get some made they did not have any off the shelf.  I also tried Berkshire Jag Components (BJC) but no luck either and some doubt about whether Jaguar would have any separate from the shocks.  I called John Hopkins but he was busy.  Sometime ago I bought some steel tubing. 16mm OD and 14mm OD. I discovered that the 16mm tube was a good fit in to the shock absorber mount. The smaller tube was almost an exact fit with the mounting bolts. With a little persuasion from a mallet or press one would fit inside the other. Once fitted together the inner tube could be persuaded, by carefully filing the burrs off the end, to accept the mounting bolt again  The outer tube had stretched but de-burring with a file and some work with Wet and Dry paper was made a comfortable fit to the journal of the shock absorber.  I need to check with John H to see if in his opinion this is an acceptable solution



Front hubs

To start with I made another front suspension bush.  I went to Unimaster to get some front brake disc mounting bolts. I refurbished the front hubs and bearings. I pressed the new bearing cages in using the bench press and the old roller bearings. I finished painting the hubs ready for fitting and painted the left rear hub and the anti roll bar brackets.



5 hrs


John H confirmed that the bushes I had made would be ok. Fitted the front lower shock mounts. I had to open the front mounting hole to align with the holed in the wishbone (LH). Tightened the lower and upper ball joint Fitted the front shocks and springs. Examined the front brake disc and determined that I needed to get some new bolts before mounting the discs and the hubs.  Fitted the rear shocks and springs. Fitted the LH rear hub outer fulcrum and attempted to engage the hub with the drive shaft. For some reason it does not fit. Further investigation required



5 hrs.

Rear Hub

I had been putting off refurbishment of the RH rear hub and upright ever since I had experimented by trying to press out the old hub from the redundant left upright and broke the jig in the process.  Yesterday I made a new jig, mounted the redundant hub again at 2.5 tons pressure I still could not move it.  I only succeeded in bending the new jig. I decided overnight that playing with the redundant hub was a waste of time.   I mounted the RH hub placed it in the press and it came out easily.  The inner cages for the inner and outer bearings were driven out with a hammer and ¼” square drift.  I removed the fulcrum bearings spacers and washers taking careful note of the order in which they fitted. I turned my attention to the outer bearing which comes out with the hub.   I soon learned why Malcolm Rolfe said the bearing is usually destroyed in the process of removing it.  HM says use a suitable puller.  No suitable puller being available the only option is to destroy the roller cage to remove it and drive out the bearing with a hammer and drift.  Not a problem, since new bearings are going to be fitted anyway.  It just takes a little time because the flange on the bearing is small and the angle between the hub and the flange is steep (60 degrees?) making it  awkward to work.  Eventually  by concerted effort with the hammer and drift and rotating the hub it will come off.  I cleaned up the upright and hub with white spirit.  Cleaned them with a wire brush on the Dremel and gave them a coat of etching primer.    I also cleaned up the disc brake covers which had been soaking in anti rust this week and painted them in etching primer as well.

Total Hours this month =45   Total hours to date = 387½ hrs