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| Date | Event | |
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6/09/2003 5Hrs.
Differential Final Drive Wire locking
Front Hub / wishbones |
This week I’ve stood still or even taken a pace backwards. Previously I had fitted the drive shafts and rear brake discs. I had wire locked the diff in place and the fulcrum brackets to each side of the diff - I was not happy with the end result , also the end plates on the diff are held on with 5 bolts. Jaguar ( in the shape of BL) wire locked these bolts with single strand of wire running through all 5 bolts and joined with a twist. My aircraft training was screaming at me that this was not acceptable and my experience of SVA doubted that the VI would find it acceptable either. I got some 1mm locking wire from “Unimaster”. Simple enough, remove the drive shafts and brake discs cut the wire and re-wire it with double strands twisted together. At the 3rd attempt, having rejected the 1st because it was not neat enough; broken the wire on the 2nd , I decided the wire locking is like soldering or welding You need to do it regularly to make a good job of it. Not that any of it was dangerous or unsafe but it looked untidy or not quite right. Practice makes perfect, I researched the internet for tips on wire locking and found nothing. I changed my tactic to search for safety wiring and came up with a “gold mine” It didn’t tell me any more than I already knew but did confirm that the wire locking done by Jaguar was acceptable. However I was not satisfied and persevered with the twin stand method. Eventually, I lost count of the number of scrapped, I managed to safely wire all 5 bolts. I refitted the drive shafts and brake disks taking care to equalize shims on the RHS to ensure the brake disk runs central to the calliper.
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7/9/2003 5 hours. Front fulcrum Pins |
What to do about the oversize pins. I
thought, at first that the overspray of chassis paint in the guide tube was
the problem, but I had cleaned and cleared this when fitting the old fulcrum
pin. I also thought it could be the cadmium plating on the pins. So I
removed the plating with wet and dry but the pins were still too big for the
bushes and the guide tube. I consulted John Hopkins, because I was concerned
at the amount of material I needed to remove and still keep the shaft of the
pins circular and parallel, John measured the difference between old and new
as 0.003”. He also loaned me some medium grade emery tape. There was nothing
for it but to reduce the pins by holding them in a vice and pulling the
emery tape back and forward across the pins. I measured the old pins with a
vernier gauge and worked carefully with the emery tape and wet and dry paper
until I had a good interference fit with the gauge, the bushes and the
tube. It took about 1.5 hours per pin. Following this I fitted the upper
and lower front wishbones to the chassis, finally touching up the paintwork
that had been damaged during the fitting process. |
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8/9/2003 2 hours Front Uprights |
Today I realised the 4th
September had slipped past without me noticing the significance. Just 1 year
has passed since we bought the XJ6, Doesn’t time fly when you are having
fun. I fitted the front uprights and nipped them up just to hold them in
place. Part way through I realised I had not cleaned the overspray from the
taper holes where the ball joint pins locate. Luckily I had not gone too far
and was able to undo them and clean them out. With the front wishbones and
uprights in place the chassis is beginning to take shape. Started work in
the rear wishbones. Sorted out the inner fulcrum repair kit taking note of
the replacement parts and the order in which they fit. Also I identified
which bits to retain and clean for refitting the wishbone. |
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9/9/2003 2hours Rear Wishbones |
I fitted the needle roller bearings to the rear left wishbone. Firstly clean out any overspray paint in bearing holes in the journal. Lightly grease the seat and cages with copper slip Tap them in flush with the face from each side with a soft faced (nylon / plastic) hammer, I ensured they were flush by pulling them in using two large washers and an M10 bolt passed through the centre and tightened until they were flush. Grease the bearings, shaft , spacers, seals, seal retainers and thrust washers (I used Castrol LM. Assemble the seals, retainers and spacers, thrust washers on the wishbone. This is a bit of a juggling act but the grease helps to hold them in place. Offer up the assembly to the diff mounting bracket. Take care not to disturb the seals and washers. Pass the shaft through the assembly the brackets the centre distance piece and it’s fitted. At least that is what is supposed to happen in theory. It is possible to do all this single handed but is much easier if you have a 2nd pair of hands, In practice the assembly is a tight fit. Make sure you put the centre distance piece in place between the diff / wishbone mounting bosses first. It is a loose interference fit but will stay in place while you fit the assembly. The wishbone is a tight fit on the diff mounting it is unlikely you will slip it over the mounting with all the thrust washers in place. Leave the innermost thrush washer off will give you room to manoeuvre. With the assembly in place pass the shaft through the first journal, through the mounting and in to the distance tube. You can do this by hand or it may need a very gentle tap with a soft hammer. Stop must before the shaft enters the far side journal. The assembly will hang there and you have hands free to concentrate on slipping the thrust washer between the journal and the mounting. You might need to give it a gentle tap to slide it in to position. Ensure you have all the seals and spacers lined up and assembly is in line with the shaft, Now tap the shaft in to position.
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10/9/2003 2hrs Rear Wishbones |
Fitted the Right rear wishbone as above. I tightened the wishbones up to test the alignment and the clearances. The outer oil seal retainers are not tight. It looks like something is misaligned, possibly the bearing spacers I will need to investigate.
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13/9/2003 5 hrs
Rear Wishbones
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I lost count of the number of times I checked and rechecked the fitting of the left rear wishbone. I trial fitted the NC diff mounting plates and brackets but was still dissatisfied with the fitting of the seal retainers. I dismantled it all again and tried one last time to improve the fitting. I measured the length of an old bearing spacer and ground a little off of a new one using a flat grindstone. I don’t think this had any affect. I resolved to carefully fit the wishbone and bearings again making sure that the inner thrust washers were fully engaged on the bearing spacer. I fitted the NC brackets once again, tightening up the pivot bolts sufficiently to align the brackets and measure any free play in the seals retainers. There was still some free play but I decided to accept this. There was probably sufficient dirt and stuff in the ones I removed from the XJ6 to mask any free play there was originally. I drilled and bolted the NC diff brackets to the boomerang bar. Torque tightened all the mounting bolts.
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14/9/2002 5hrs. Front Brakes |
Cleaned up the front brake deflector plates. Dismantled the front hubs for refurbishment. Examined the front suspension mounting kit. Cleaned up the anti roll bar mountings. Placed alongside the front brake cover plates in the de-rusting solution. The left front hub was a bit difficult to remove the bearing cages from the hub. The seal removing tool was useful .It made the removal of the oil seals easy but damaged the seals in the process. I have replacement seals so it is OK. Cleaned up the front hubs with a wire brush and placed in de-rusting fluid
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15/9/2002 3hrs. Suspension |
Continued cleaning and de-rusting the front hubs and brake disc covers, Trial fitted the front and rear shocks. Looks like I need some extra bushes.
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18/9/2002 1hr Shock Absobers |
I contacted Malcolm Rolfe a couple of days
ago about the bushes. It seems there are 4 bushes in the upper mounts of the
rear shocks on the XJ6 which should be used. I thought I had saved these but
I can’t find them, so maybe not. Replacements from NC cost £5.00 each!!!.
I did a thorough search of all the boxes of bits from the XJ6 but I could
not find any. I took a trip to Berkshire Bearings in Newbury but whilst
they could get some made they did not have any off the shelf. I also tried
Berkshire Jag Components (BJC) but no luck either and some doubt about whether
Jaguar would have any separate from the shocks. I called John Hopkins but
he was busy. Sometime ago I bought some steel tubing. 16mm OD and 14mm OD.
I discovered that the 16mm tube was a good fit in to the shock absorber
mount. The smaller tube was almost an exact fit with the mounting bolts.
With a little persuasion from a mallet or press one would fit inside the
other. Once fitted together the inner tube could be persuaded, by carefully
filing the burrs off the end, to accept the mounting bolt again The outer
tube had stretched but de-burring with a file and some work with Wet and Dry
paper was made a comfortable fit to the journal of the shock absorber. I
need to check with John H to see if in his opinion this is an acceptable
solution |
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20/9/2003 5hrs Front hubs |
To start with I made another front suspension bush. I went to Unimaster to get some front brake disc mounting bolts. I refurbished the front hubs and bearings. I pressed the new bearing cages in using the bench press and the old roller bearings. I finished painting the hubs ready for fitting and painted the left rear hub and the anti roll bar brackets.
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21/9/2003 5 hrs Suspension |
John H confirmed that the bushes I had made would be ok. Fitted the front lower shock mounts. I had to open the front mounting hole to align with the holed in the wishbone (LH). Tightened the lower and upper ball joint Fitted the front shocks and springs. Examined the front brake disc and determined that I needed to get some new bolts before mounting the discs and the hubs. Fitted the rear shocks and springs. Fitted the LH rear hub outer fulcrum and attempted to engage the hub with the drive shaft. For some reason it does not fit. Further investigation required
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28/9/2003 5 hrs. Rear Hub |
I had been putting off refurbishment of the
RH rear hub and upright ever since I had experimented by trying to press out
the old hub from the redundant left upright and broke the jig in the
process. Yesterday I made a new jig, mounted the redundant hub again at 2.5
tons pressure I still could not move it. I only succeeded in bending the
new jig. I decided overnight that playing with the redundant hub was a waste
of time. I mounted the RH hub placed it in the press and it came out
easily. The inner cages for the inner and outer bearings were driven out
with a hammer and ¼” square drift. I removed the fulcrum bearings spacers
and washers taking careful note of the order in which they fitted. I turned
my attention to the outer bearing which comes out with the hub. I soon
learned why Malcolm Rolfe said the bearing is usually destroyed in the
process of removing it. HM says use a suitable puller. No suitable puller
being available the only option is to destroy the roller cage to remove it
and drive out the bearing with a hammer and drift. Not a problem, since new
bearings are going to be fitted anyway. It just takes a little time because
the flange on the bearing is small and the angle between the hub and the
flange is steep (60 degrees?) making it awkward to work. Eventually by
concerted effort with the hammer and drift and rotating the hub it will come
off. I cleaned up the upright and hub with white spirit. Cleaned them with
a wire brush on the Dremel and gave them a coat of etching primer. I also
cleaned up the disc brake covers which had been soaking in anti rust this
week and painted them in etching primer as well. |
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| Total Hours this month =45 | Total hours to date = 387½ hrs | |
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