October 2004

Date Event


Body Rear Wing

I started to fit the nearside rear wing yesterday, by drilling out and opening the marks in the front edge of the rear wing that fits to the "B" Post.  Once drilled out, and fitted to the "B" post, it was easier than I anticipated to spring the back edge of the wing in to place in the body shell recess.  The gap between the upper front of the wing, and the body shell was rather large but will hopefully pull up when drilled  and bolted to the body shell. I put masking tape along the upper part of the wing and marked where the securing bolt holes need to be drilled.  I fond that I needed to place the holes in slightly different positions from the diagram in the bold manual in order to get a better match to the contour of wing and the body shell.  With the wing temporarily in place I left it in position overnight.



"B" Post

Rear Body

Having thought about the fitment of the wing overnight I decided that the "B" post was not fitted to the body shell as well as it could be. The problem was that the "B" post did not follow the line of the rear body shell. This meat the rear wing was fractionally too far forward. This was my fault since I tried to fit the "B" post to the contour of the door. this is wrong it MUST be fitted to follow the contour of the body shell as close as can be achieved.   I removed the wing and the "B" Post . Using a sand paper and a rubbing block I removed a high point at the top[ of the rear body shell until the "B" post followed the line of the body shell exactly from top to bottom.  I then clamped the "B" post to the top of the body shell and fitted an M5 nut and bolt instead of the splay rivet to hold the "B" post in place.  I drilled an extra hole at the bottom of the "B" post return and bolted it to the rear body shell with another M5 bolt and nut.  The was to hold the "B" post more securely in line with the body shell during the fitting of the rear wing.  I adjusted  the "B" post mounting pillar to follow the angel of the "B" post and maintaining this angle pushed it back until it he door cleared the "B" post when closed.  I had decided that the rear wing needed trimming at the point where the body shell changes shape to from the front of the wheel arch. Using masking tape and a pencil I marked where the wing needed to be trimmed.  Only take a small amount off at time to ensure that plenty of material is left to mount the wing to the body shell.  You can always take more off if necessary.   At the same time I pilot drilled the wing where the holes for the mounting bolts were to be fitted.   I refitted the wing leaving the rare of the wing free,  aligning the front with the  "B " post  and the body shell to get the best fit.  I sprung the rear of the wing in to position again. The wing was definitely a better fit at the font. I positioned the wing so that the dimension at the centre line of the wheel arch to the seam was 250 mm and the font edge of the wing panel was 115mm from the chassis rail. this last dimension can be achieved by adjusting the "B" post.   Working from the font, and underneath the wing,  I drilled the wing and the wing had the body shell to accept the " UNF bolts. The wing was secured to the body shell using these bolts, nuts, plain and penny washers. ( Ensure you fit sufficient bolts to hold the wing up tight and avoid unsightly gaps in the seam between the wing and the body shell. )  I used plain nuts ,temporarily, and will replace them with nyloc nuts once the wing is finally fitted. Working from the front is important. Do one bolt hole at a time tightening  up the bolt as you go because  the position of the wing will move as you close any gaps between the body shell and the wing.  I found during this process it was necessary to remove  the wing and carefully trim some more material from the upper edge of the wing to improve the quality of the fit.


1.5 hrs

Rear wing

I had finished up yesterday with most of the bolts in place that hold the rear wing to the body shell.  I continued today with drilling and fitting the last few.  I found out that though I had marked the centre of the material between the edge of the seam and the edge of the wing.  the shape of the body shell meant that I was getting closer to the inner edge of the shell and beginning to find it difficult to find enough clearance to fit the bolts.  Most of them I could get away with but the last few I had to move the holes slightly inboard so the bolts had sufficient room and did not interfere with the side and top of the rear body shell.



"B" Post

We learn from experience and I put this to good effect when I started fitting the "B" post on the drivers side.  I protected the rear body shell with masking tape and with a pencil and a good steel rule marked a line following the upper point of the body shell down the side of the body shell.  I trimmed off the excess material with a pad saw. I straightened and smoothed the edge of the body shell so that the line was a smooth extension of the line of the upper body shell.  I fitted the "B" Post and clamped it to the top of the body shell making sure it was a snug fit against the top of the body shell.  I checked the dimensions make sure they agreed with the passenger side. (They wont be exact but a broad agreement within a few mm  is good enough, any discrepancy can be adjusted out when fitting the "B" Post to the chassis.)  With the "B" post in position I marked and drilled the return and bolted it to body shell using M5 bolts, plain washers and nuts.



Body Rear wing

Slow work today.  In between watching the Japanese Grand prix I opened out the slots in the front of the drivers side rear wing. These were not as distinct as the passenger side but I managed to identify them using the "B" post as a template.  Much of the body work fitting is trial and error. It took several attempts fitting the rear wing and taking it off again, adjusting the size and shape of the holes and refitting it.  The drivers side rear wing looked as though it needed more trimming than the passenger side. When the wing was bolted up to the "B" Post the "50mm measurement from the wheel arch to the wing was nearer 265mm.  Looking the top of the wing there was a mark running the length of the wing, that looked like where the edge of the mould had come and this corresponded the surplus measurement I needed to remove.  However I decided to remove it in easy stages rather than the whole thing. I ran some masking tape along the edge of the wing and marked a line following the mark in the wing.  I then marked a tapered line to smoothly follow the line of the edge of the wing to take about  2mm from the front of the wing up to about  7mm at the centre and down  to about 4mm at the back.  Having marked the wing  I had started to trim it but I decided a new saw blade was required. It's amazing how quickly GRP blunts a saw blade



Rear Wing

 Armed with a mew blade I trimmed the rear wing.  After another trial fit I decided that I needed to trim some more off.  This time I decided to trim it down to the mark  on the wing, to take a little more out of the front of the wing to genet a better fit at the transition point from the wheel arch to the body shell and not to take any more off the back. By the time I had done this even the new saw blade was getting a bit blunt.  However it was a much better fit.  The drivers wing has a twist in it which will probably be corrected in part, when the wing is bolted to the body shell and the rear wing stay is fitted.   Initially however the rear wheel arch is curled under the car and touches the rear wheel.  I will take a proper look at it when the wing is finally secured.  I took the wing off and marked the masking tape  where the securing bolts need to go.  I've moved the holes further inboard to make sure the bolts do not foul the body shell.  I refitted the wing and started to drill through the wing in to the body shell to mount it.  As before, starting at the front and working backwards to ensure that the wing  is pulled up in to position so that subsequent holes are accurately positioned



Body Rear wing


Passenger door








Driver's door

Over the last 3 days I've continued to work on fitting the driver's side rear wing and the passenger door.   Friday I got Adam to help with holding the rear wing in position whilst I drilled the mounting holes in the body shell.  Because of the twist in the wing I got Adam to pull the bottom of the wing out whist  pressing the top of the wing hard inwards.  With the wing in this position it was safe to drill the mounting holes.  We got most of them done, at least the ones that mattered the rest I did in Saturday morning.

The passenger door needed to be trimmed to make it fit without fouling the rear wing.  I started at the top of the door which was the first point to come in to contact with the wing. Using masking tape to protect the surface of the door and make it easier to mark the trimming I drew a Line following the angle of the wing.  Most of this has to be done by eye and taking only a small amount off at a time. I rimmed the door using a combination of  sanding drum in the  Dremel and a Black and Decker Mouse sander. The Dremel roughly removes the surplus material and the Mouse  helps straighten the line and finish it off. I worked methodically down the door,  slowly and carefully taking off the high spots that touch the wing.  I kept trying the door to make sure I was progressing towards matching the angle of the wing and an even straight gap.  I got to a position where the door would close but was just touching in a few places.  At this point I was aiming for a 2mm  gape between the rear of the door and the wing. Using a small piece of 25 mm X 2 mm aluminum strip pressed against the rear wing and overlapping the rear of the door I marked the position of the "Ally" strip on the masking tape at the rear of the door. I did this at short intervals all the way down the door.  I joined up the marks with a smooth line Then using the mouse I sanded down the edge of the door to the line. Again I worked slowly and carefully to make sure I only removed just enough material to get the door to close properly.  The gap is even and follows the angle and contour of the wing. It is slightly less than  2mm but I will adjust this later when I finish the body.

The passenger door done I went back to drivers side.  I already knew I would have to trim some more off the front of the drivers door to get it to fully close but I was unhappy with the fit of the "B" post and the rear wing on that side.  In short I stripped it all off and trimmed some more off the front of the body shell I then refitted the "B" post adjusting the mounting holes and the angle to match the rear body shell and the rear of the door.  It took a few attempts to get this right and at the same time adjust the "B" post mounting pillar for height as well as ensuring that the  outer edge of hate "B" post agreed with the passenger side and was between 95 and 98 mm from the chassis.   Satisfied the "B" post position was as good as I was going to get. I refitted the rear wing. Most of the holes lined up as before but It was necessary to adjust one or two to get the wing mounted as before. The wing still curves under and is close to the tyre at the back of the wheel arch but the overall fit is better and the gap between the wing and the tyre will improve once the wing stay is fitted.  Tomorrow I will start on the fit of the drivers door



Driver's Door

Fitting the drivers door was a case of more trial and error.  starting work at the front I marked a 2mm line down as far as the shoulder of the door and following the contour. I trimmed down this line with a pad saw to increase the gap at the front of the door  and make it close, closer to the rear body shell.  the edge of the door was smoothed down with a Black and Decker mouse.  the rear of the door now touched the body shell. I had rum masking taper down the front edge of the rear wing. I drew a line down the edge of the door on to the masking tape to determine the line of the door , compared to the wing and to gauge how much the door needed to be trimmed by.  I transferred the line on to masking tape which I had already run down the door.  I made sure that I was going to trim less than was needed so that I could adjust the line and amount to be removed in stages  to get the gap even and the line exact.   I trimmed the door with the Dremel fitted with a sanding drum to remove the bulk of the material and finished off with the B&D Mouse.  This was done in stages unit  the door was  tight fit.   To get the line and the gap right, with the door closed I used a piece or 2mm aluminium strip pressed against the rear wing as a distance piece and marked where the edge came on the door. doing this at regular intervals  I had a line to work to which would result in a 2mm gap that follows the line of the wing.  This should be sufficient for the door to close with out fouling.  AS I worked on trimming the rear of the door, the closer it came to a fit, It became necessary to adjust the gap at the front of the door.  I t was a case of working on back and front alternately to get the best. Eventually I achieved a state where the door would close smoothly and when matched to the contour of the rear wing the front did not touch the body and the gap was about 2mmall round.  This will do for now and can finally be set when the shut lines are done to finish the body.



Bonnet / Boot

Keep Plates

I need to make the keep plates for the bonnet and boot hinges. During the week I managed to source some 8mm steel plate so armed with a hack saw, angle grinder and the Dremel I set about making them. There was nothing remarkable about this process except that 8mm steel is difficult to cut with a hack saw. My advice would be if you can get a local engineering company to hack then out for you do it. Otherwise arm yourself with a lot of high quality blades, they blunt very quickly.  I followed the diagrams in the build manual to an extent to  get the basic size and shape marked on the steel. then started the long and laborious process of cutting then out. Once I had the basic shapes I used the hinges, themselves, as a template to get the matching size and trimmed them as necessary, using the hack saw, angle grinder and lastly the Dremel to finish then off.

Total Hours this Month = 39.5


Total hours to date = 845.0