Handbrake & ARB
The handbrake mechanism and the
anti roll bar keep plates have been in anti-rust fluid for the last 2 weeks
whilst I have been decorating the hall stairs and landing of the house. The
components have cleaned up well and after treatment with a wire brush were
ready for painting.
Gave the handbrake components and the keep plates a coat of undercoat. According to the HM the recommended method of fitting the rear uprights and hubs to the drive shaft was to fit the drive to the diff. Fit the upright and hub to the wishbone with the outer fulcrum pin. Engage the stub axle in the rear of the upright, align the spines and push the hub in to position. I had fitted the uprights & the drive shafts previously. I had also tried fitting the hub and drive shaft the HM way, earlier, but it is almost impossible to get the alignment correct single handedly. I worked out it would be easier to fit the drive shaft to the hub and upright and then fit the assembly to the car. Today I removed the uprights and drive shafts. Placed the uprights face down supported on 2 blocks of wood. Inserted the splined shaft in the back of the upright. It was easy to align and tapped it home with a soft hammer. Offered up the assembly and bolted the drive shaft to the diff flange. Aligned the upright with the outer fulcrum and inserted the fulcrum pin. Easy. Repeated for the RH side. I checked the drive shaft for UJ free movement the LH locks up the RH is OK. The NC build manual warns this may happen and can be cured by grinding a small amount off the end of the journal. The diagram look like it is wrong, showing the chamfer on the inside not the outside of the journal. Contacted NC for clarity
After some discussion with Malcolm,
yesterday, we decided the `diagram is correct. To prove it Malcolm
advised putting some white paint on the end of the drive shaft and see where
it is transferred on to the flange. Sure enough it was transferred
from the inner chamfers of the drive shaft to the bottom of the dishes
ground in to the flange. That proved it. the diagram was correct and a small
amount of metal needed to be taken off the chamfers to provide
clearance. I had decided that the job cold be done in situ using a
Dremel multi-purpose drill fitted with a small grind stone. I covered as
much of the surrounding area with cloth to protect from the
grinding dust. The paint shows you where to grind away the metal. The
process I chose was to grind away some metal from the chamfer then redo the
paint test until no paint was transferred from the Drive shaft to the flange
and the drive shaft was completely free to rotate. You need to do this for
both sides of the drive shaft and flange. I also took metal from both
the drive shaft and flange, but with hind site it is better and safer to
just rework the dishes in the flange unless it is absolutely necessary to
remove metal from the chamfers. I also gave the brake components
another coat of paint.
The photographs taken during
dismantling of the car and the handbrake callipers proved useful in
reassembling the callipers and making sure they were fitted to the right
side of the car,. I used the HM and the photographs of the HB calliper
to reassemble LHS side, All of the internal components` were lubricated with
Copperslip, including the backs of the HB disc pads. It was not necessary to
do this but might make it easier to remove them when it is time to change
them. Trial fitted it to the vehicle. The HB callipers are fitted to
the top of the brake callipers with the operating levers inboard.
I Dismantled the RHS HB calliper and left the components to soak in
the anti rust fluid.
|Cleaned up the RH HB components with a wire brush and returned them to the anti rust bath to complete the job.|
Fitted the RH Front Brake Calliper. Fitted the ARB. completed painting of RH Handbrake mechanism ready for reassembly.
|Total hours this month = 15.5 hrs||
Total hours to date =429.0 hrs