Fitted the engine mounts to the chassis. Some weeks ago I modified and painted the support bracket fro the pedal box. Today I got round to fitting it sealing all the joints with translucent filler.
Today was tighten and torque up the
front end day. The front end had been assembled for ages but only nipped up
tight also I had not fitted the brake disc covers because once fitted I
could not access to the back of the discs to keep them clean and stop them
rusting. Whilst I systematically checked all the nuts and bolts for correct
torque settings I cleaned the discs and then fitted the covers. After
lunch I wire locked the steering arm and brake callipers. Finally
torque tightened the ARB. I cleaned the front and back brake discs
ready to fit the brake pads. I then discovered that the new pads did not
have new locating pins and clips. I will have to order new ones before I can
fit the pads. I thought the right rear hub was too tight. I
could turn the left hub and the right one would turn before I tightened up
the hub but since then it is stiffer than I would have liked. I undid
the hub adjusted it again and fitted a new split pin to retain it. It
is a little better. I will keep an eye on it and check it again later.
Seat Belt Support brackets
I ordered the new
retaining pins, anti-rattle springs and clips from SNG Barratt yesterday.
They arrived 1st class post this morning. But I began by positioning
the petrol tank and marking where the holes in the brackets need to be
drilled. I discovered that the holes in the supporting bracket did not
line up with the holes in the tank brackets. I abandoned further
investigation until I could get Mary to help align the tank, and support
bracket and clamp it in place. so I turned my attention to the
supporting struts for the seat belt guides. The left hand bracket was
proud of the bottom mount and marked the fuel tank when it was in place. I
undid the bracket and chamfered the bottom rear corner flush with the
mounting bracket. painted it and replaced it. The RH bracket was also
proud but did not touch the petrol tank but I did the same modification
to it just to match them. While the paint was drying I fitted the
brake pads with the new springs, pins and clips. the Getrag gearbox had
been sat in the garage since last June. Examining it in preparation for
mating it to the engine I realise the gear lever had been sheered below
where the gear knob should fit, leaving only 1/4" of thread. I spoke to
Malcolm, who confirmed it did not matter since it was best to replace it with
a shorter one. Finally I dismantled the gear lever mount, disconnected the
gearbox from the bell housing, and removed the rear mounting brackets.
I degreased the gearbox casing and left it to dry.
Hand Brake Cable
Start the day with a
success and you will feel better all day. That's what I did. I fitted
the fuel tank and the spreader bar and "G" clamped them in place, last
evening. This is straight forward if there are two of you but a fiddly job
requiring the dexterity of an octopus if you are on your own. However I did
it and left it over night so that I could approach the job with a fresh eye
to ensure the position was correct. This morning I looked at it again and
decided the position could be improved. I loosened the clamps, made sure the
tank was in the correct place adjusted the spreader bar position to line as
close as possible with the holes already drilled in the fuel tank mounting
brackets with the holes in the spreader bar mounting brackets. Making sure
the alignment was maintained I tightened the "G" clamps. Then drilled
through each hole in turn then inserting and tightening a bolt to hold the
assembly together before moving to the next hole. With the tank fitted to
the chassis and all the clamps removed it has to be taken off again to
permit the body to be fitted and also I needed the tank out of the way to
avoid damaging it when I lower the chassis down on to axle stands to fit the
engine. That was my next problem I needed to find the easiest a
way of lifting the chassis so that I could insert some extra support
blocks under it whilst I routed the hand brake cable. By the same token if I
can do this then I've also solved the problem of lowering the chassis
without giving me and sundry others a hernia. I had been thinking
about this for a while and had decided the best way was to use the engine
hoist which is capable of lifting 1000Kg. Before I tried it I had a
good clear up around the garage to give me some space in which to work.
I had some old seat belts from a Renault 12 ( when was the last time you saw
one of these) I unreeled the belt, cut the belt off from the inertia
reel end, removed the buckles so I was left with a length of strong webbing.
Tied the webbing in place around the rear chassis upper cross member above
the diff. Positioned the crane, hooked up the webbing and cautiously
lifted the chassis Easy , no problem inserted 2 short wooden blocks
under the outer chassis member, which gave me sufficient space to work with
the hand brake cable. Painted 2 small spacers (ex XJ6 seat spacers) to be
put between the hand brake bracket and the chassis tomorrow
handbrake cable bracket and spacers to the holes pre-drilled in the drivers
floor pan. Attempted to connect the hand brake cable clevis to the
handbrake only to discover the angle of he cable looked wrong. I then
realised I needed not only the original clevis from the XJ6 but the
fabricated one that came with the hand brake lever, that I had removed.
fitted the clevis back to the handbrake and reconnected the cable.
lubricating all the moving pars with copper slip. It still did not
look right then I realised I had got the routing wrong in the region of the
diff. The cable should be routed across the car from the handbrake to the
cable bracket. The spacers are to make sure it clears the prop shaft when
fitted. It may be necessary to adjust the clearance once the prop shaft is
in place. The cable the passes along the RH chassis rail to the outside, up
and in front of the RH chassis up stand. the cable outer is retained by the
RH operating lever block with the inner passing through the block. The
clevis connecting to the LH operating lever. It may be necessary to remove a
block from the LH lever in order to attach the clevis (depending on the XJ6
model and year). Once I rerouted the cable, leaving it loose for the moment
I connected up both ends , adjusting the Handbrake clevis to take up
the slack. Operating the handbrake and it works. the handbrake is solid on
after the 4th click on the ratchet. I'll secure the cable tomorrow.
Hand Brake Cable
Yesterday I worked out how to secure the handbrake cable. Malcolm had recommended using a spring from the donor XJ6 hooked in to the same hole as the handbrake return springs. The spring I had was too short to do that. I decided to make a bracket, rivet it to the upper cross member and hook the spring round the cable with the other end hooked to the bracket. I discovered the spring was slightly too long to do this, In the process of trying to shorten it I broke it. However it was a simple matter to heat the spring with a blow torch and then it was easy to bend. and I could tailor the spring to the correct length. I still have some more tidying up work to do on the handbrake like adding spiral wrap to the cable where it passes between the bulkhead and the chassis up-stand. Also it looks like I need longer spacers under the front bracket
Today Greg came
over. Working alternately back and front we lifted the chassis to
remove the trestle stands, using axel stands on building blocks and bricks
to support it. Then alternately we lowered the chassis by adjusting
the axle stand and removing bricks and blocks axle stands one at
a time until we has the chassis down to a point where it is supported
on fully extended axle stands on top of a 4" building block. I
had be worrying about this for a while because although it was great to do
all the chassis work without bending stretching crouching and so on the
weight was increasing where we were in danger of giving most of my
neighbours a hernia trying to lift it down. In the event the two of us and
the engine hoist managed it easily.
A weekend of
glorious sunshine. Being dry and warm it was ideal for paint to dry. I had
split the bell housing and the Getrag box a while back. This weekend I
finished cleaning them up and after a coat of etching primer sprayed them
silver. I also put spiral wrap around the fuel pipes where they pass through
the chassis cross member. The bracket I made to hold the restraining spring
for the handbrake cable was also dry after painting so I riveted it to the
chassis and attached the spring. The hand brake front bracket will need to
be remounted on slightly larger spacers. I have found the XJ6 seat spacer
recommended by Nostalgia and will fit them once the paint is dry. At
the end of the day I refitted the bell housing to the Getrag box and started
work on assembling the clutch forks. We made a new fulcrum pin a while back
and this is slightly too large in diameter. I have yet to work out what to
do about it. In between doing all this I managed to mow the lawns, put up
the gazebo, walk the dog and wash the cars as well as start tidying up the
garage, ready for assembling the engine and gear box.
I removed the bell housing and took it, the clutch forks and the fulcrum pin to John Hopkins. John is an engineer and very experienced restorer of classic lotus cars. John had made the replacement fulcrum pin. It wasn't much oversize but I did not want to force it and it was very tight in comparison with the old one. We had determined the old pin was nominally 1/2" in diameter. In fact it was 0.0022 under. The new pin was exactly 1/2". Rather than remove metal John decided to see if it was just dirt preventing the fit. I had already tried this with a 1/2" drill which fitted easily. Measuring the drill we found it was 0.001" under size. Applying lots of WD40 to the clutch forks we found we could work the new pin in about half way and lots of dirt came flooding out but then it stopped. It looked like there was a burr where the retaining screw had been drilled in to the forks. John had a 1/2" reamer which we worked through past the retaining screw hole and out the other side. The pin however was still tight when we tried to fit it. Each time, however ,it got better and by liberal use of WD 40 and keep working it through we eventually got it to fit and rotate freely on the forks. We turned our attention to the bell housing and using the same technique of WD40 and keep working the pin in to the clutch fork mounting bushes. we cleaned out the dirt and got the pin to fit comfortably with nice free rotation
Today I removed the building blocks and lowered the chassis down so that it was just supported by the axle stands. I worked out the size and length of bolts needed to bolt the bell housing to the gearbox. Generally reoriented myself with jobs that need to be done on the engine before it can be fitted, like tightening the pulley belts, fitting the fan and fuel components.
Fitted the bell housing to the gearbox, secured it with 7/16" UNF x1½" bolts , shake proof washers and thread lock. Fitted the clutch release forks and bearing. Worked out which bolts were required to fit the clutch to the flywheel. Painted the clutch slave cylinder. Although it was "new/ refurbished" I'm not sure which it was rusty straight out of the box.
Not much got done today. The prospect of Jenson Button winning the Monaco Grand Prix took precedence. Alas, it was not to be but a creditable 2nd place was OK. I had realised that I needed to talk to Barratt's re the Speedo drive on the gearbox. So I made a list if the components I thought I needed.
Fetched some UNC bolts from Unimaster. Just a few to replace rusty ones on the engine. Ordered the Speedo components from Barrett's.
Gearbox Speedo Drive
The Speedo bits arrived today, Speedo drive, housing, oils seals and cable. All pretty easily fitted with the exception that the Speedo oil seal needed to be pressed in to the housing. Achieved using the bench press. I discovered the Speedo cable won't fit the housing the threaded coupling is too small. The same is true of the right angle drive from the old auto box. I'll have to contact Barratt's to clarify the problem and get the right parts. fitted the fan to the engine again. I had already fitted it but I was concerned that the securing studs did not engage the nyloc nuts fully. Refitted the fan with plain nuts and shockproof washers. Progress towards fitting the engine seems slow at the moment. We are very close but there are lots of little jobs that need doing before the engine can be fitted.
|Not much was achieved today, I was busy fixing up the new barbecue and mowing the lawns, and finishing my daughters kitchen. I did manage to contact Barratt's and order the missing adapter for the Speedo and the rubber bushes for the gear lever mount. I also got a piece of hose from Unimaster and fitted the oil pipe between the sump and the oil filter.|
|Total hours this month = 38||
Total hours to date = 572.5