|
|
||
| Date | Event | |
|
01/07/2005 2hrs Front Wing Stays Boot Slam Panel |
The painting of the front wing stays is finished and dry. I fitted them this afternoon making sure they were in alignment with the doors. I went back to the fitting of the boot slam panel. I had clamped the panel in place and closed the boot. All seemed well the seal was butted against he boot lid. Then I realised that there was enough flex in the panel to push it back when the lid was closed and make it appear as though it was a good fit. If I held the panel to stop it flexing the boot lid would not close properly. I spoke to Nostalgia to get an understanding of how they fitted the slam panel. They fit the boot /panel seal across the width of the boot opening and in to the body cavity, (as I had done). From inside the car they push the slam panel rearwards until it the seal touches the boot lid and clamp it in place. If the front of he slam panel is not in line ( and it often isn't ) they trim thee slam panel to fit. I trial fitted mine and found that I needed to trim some more out of the corners to clear the welds of the dumb iron chassis brackets. After a further trial fit I clamped he panel in place but I need to adjust the position of the slam panel to make the seal come in contact with he boot across the whole width. I left this until tomorrow when I will determine the final position and trim it. Yesterday I obtained some M5 rivnuts. Today I fitted them to the bottom of the boot well coming to secure the floor. Fitting the rivnuts means that the floor can be fixed in place from above by one person.
|
|
|
02/07/2005 2hrs boot slam Panel |
From inside the boot opening I positioned the boot
slam panel in place and clamped it with a "G" clamp and a couple of mole
grips. with the seal tight against the boot lid the slam panel was at an
angle across the car. I thought this would look odd when the boot is open
and finally trimmed/. I adjusted the position of the slam panel so
that it was square with the cross member in the belief that the position of
the seal was not critical as long as it was in decent contact with the boot
lid. It also looked as though the position of the seal could be
adjusted slightly when attaching the lower part of he slam panel to the boot
well I decided to fix it in place with 2 x M4 countersunk screws
and rivnuts in the cross member. Before drilling the slam panel I took
some time to read again the fitting instructions fro the slam pane, the boot
well and the boot lock. When fitting anything that is long, like the
boot well and the slam panel, the tendency is to drill and fix the centre
and work outwards ensuring the pattern and distances between fastenings is
the same for each side, and the number of fastenings holds the parts firmly
and flat In this case you cant do that because there needs to be a slot in
the centre of the slam panel fro the boot lock catch. However I was
able to work out the probable placing of the fasteners when it is time fit
he boot well. Returning to the slam panel still clamped in position I
marked the position of the temporary fixings holes on the centreline of the
cross member and 2¼" in from the end drilled a pilot hole through the
slam panel and cross member. I opened up the holes in the cross member to
accept M4 Rivnuts and fitted them. The holes in the slam panel were opened
out fro M4 screws and countersunk . The Slam panel was fixed in place.
|
|
|
02/07/2005 6hrs Boot Well Boot Rear Body |
I began by investigating how to get the boot well in
position to fix it. It will not go in through the boot lid opening so
it must be fitted from underneath. It appears not to be and easy job even
from that direction. I had an idea this was going to be difficult
because Keith Wells had said to me at the Gaydon Meeting that he wished he
had fitted the boot well, before he had fitted the rear of the body.
Likewise Nostalgia let slip last week that they sometimes fit the boot well
and slam panel before fitting the rear of the body..... I don't have that
luxury so I have to find a way. I had left and extra long length
of copper fuel line because I was unsure exactly where the fuel connections
would come. It was getting in the way of fitting the boot well so I
trimmed it so that it was above and aft of the rear axel. There is still
plenty left on the premise that it is easier to cut it off if it is too
long, but much more difficult to stick it on if it is too short. I
decided to remove the boot lid to make it easier. I was dissatisfied
with the hinge positions and their operation anyway. I was also concerned
that the hinge bridge was still flexing even though I had fitted the hinge
stays. So whilst I was about it I removed the stays and the bridge.
I could see that the hinge pivot had lots of sideways play in it. I
dismantled the hinge greased all the parts and refitted the pivot with two
washers as shims, either side of the hinge arm to remove the side play.
I'm contemplating making more sturdier wing stays to combat the flex in he
hinge bridge. Whilst I was at this stage I decided to replace the rear
wing fixing nuts. I had temporarily fitted the wings using plain nuts in
case I needed to remove them for any reason during the assembly process. I
replaced each nut in turn with a nyloc nut ensuring it was tight when I
finished. I haven't quite finished yet and will continue
tomorrow. In my mind I have determined that the problem I have with
fitting the boot well is that I have the car on its wheels and cannot get a
steep enough angle to feed the boot well up past the diff and far enough
back to fit over the slam panel. When I have finished with the boot hinge
bridge and the wing fixings I will jack the car up in to axel stands and see
how it goes. |
|
|
04/07/2005 2hrs
|
I'm just about back to where I was yesterday lunchtime. I've finished
replacing the wing / body attachment nuts with nyloc nuts. I n the process I
have removed the R.H. rear bumper and dumb iron. I have trimmed the thickness
of the GRP around the hole for the dumb iron grommet. and reassembled the
whole thing. I have refitted the boot bridge. |
|
|
05/07/2005 3hrs Boot Well |
I Jacked the rear of the car up and placed it on axel
stands to give me plenty of room under the car. After a couple of
half hearted attempts it was obvious that the boot well was not going to
fit. A phone call to Nostalgia revealed the secret. If the body is
fitted then cut the back of he boot well in half. Then you can squeeze in
the sides and overlap the back as necessary to get it to fit. Once
fitted, the back of the boot well is held together by an aluminium plate,
countersunk screws and nuts. I began by making the plate out of
18 gauge aluminium approx 3" wide by 8" long. This was mounted at the
centre of the rear of the boot well and temporarily secured with 6 x M5
countersunk, stainless screws and nuts. Once secured he bottom of the
bracket was bent around the boot well, under where the floor will fit, and
clamped in to place. 2 more 5mm holes were drilled through the plate
in line with the floor fixing holes. The bottom of the plate was then
secured with 2 more M5 countersunk screws and nuts. the plate was then
marked for trimming in line with the floor opening. I would definitely
recommend the fitting of the boot well (even if not secured ) before
fitting the rear body section. |
|
|
06/07/2005 3 hrs Boot Well |
I removed the plate and cut the rear of the boot well in
half. I fitted the plate with M5 rivnuts the Rivnuts I have are
a bit long so I backed them with a washer. Fitting the boot well in place is
now easy. You van squeeze the sides in and overlap the back feed it up from
underneath and expand it once it is clear of the chassis and then drop it in
place. I lifted the boot well up an forward and refitted the plate I
fitted the slam panel making sure it was underneath the boot well rear lip.
At this point I realised I should not have fitted the bottom rivnuts because
they interfere the underneath of the slam panel that comes in contact with
the boot well. I took the plate off and drilled out the bottom
rivnuts. I've decided to keep the bottom of the bracket in place ( though it
is not really necessary) as extra support for the boot well. I took
some time to look at the fitting of the boot well to make sure I knew the
optimum position in relation to the fuel tank, fuel pipes and the chassis. I
took the boot well out again and cut a little out of the rear of the side
flanges to clear the welds for the dumb iron transition brackets. I
refitted the boot well, making sure it was pulled well to the rear and
marked the fixing points across the chassis. Two points to note.
Make
sure there is sufficient space at the centre of the rear cross member free
from screw fixings for the boot catch slot. Also make sure the fixings
across the slam panel avoid the fixing screws for the slam panel. With the fixing points marked, I
carefully drilled the boot well flange, slam panel and cross member to
accept M5 spire bolts as a temporary fix whilst I work on fixing the sides
of the boot well to the chassis. |
|
|
10/07/2005 6hrs Boot Well
Fuel Pump
|
Before fixing the sides of the boot well it is preferable to fit the top cover. This presents the next challenges where and how to locate the inlet from the fuel tank and the outlet from the fuel filter to the pipe work running down the chassis. The inlet from the fuel tank comes in to the top of the top cover. The build manual pretty well leaves you to make up your own mind on where the components and the pipes of the fuel system are located. However the first given is that the top cover has to fitted. This was fitted earlier, external to the car, but is not the exact same shape as the boot well and is pulled in to place and shape during the tightening of the bolts. In the car. you can only get an approximate position of the tank outlet but this has to suffice. Drill a pilot hole and then open out the hole until the pipe passes through the top. Starting at the centre insert and loosely screw up the securing screws, gradually working outwards. As you do this the top cover will be pulled in to position and it will be necessary to adjust the position of the hole in the top cover the pipe passes through. With the securing bolts fully tightened the position of my pipe ended up centred on 35mm from the front and 230mm from the R.H. side ( all measurements are approximate and measured from inside the boot well). I took the top cover off again and opened out the hole to accept a grommet and refitted the top cover. Now it is along time since I took the fuel pump, fuel filter and associated components out of the XJ6 that i had forgotten much of he detail. However the Haynes XJ6 manual and the photographs I took of the dismantling process came ot the rescue, The only guidance the build manual gives is that components fit under the top cover and on the front RH of the boot well. (Logical since this is where the inlet pipe is and the outlet pipe will be. The only other pieces of information on the installation is that the fuel filter is mounted below the fuel pump, the XJ6 mounting brackets can be used and they components can be mounted on a sub plate with standoffs. I spent some time reading the Haynes manual and modifying the fuel injection system diagram to reflect the classic 120 installation. Fuel injection installations have a fuel rail, mounted on the engine, and a supply and return pipe from and to the fuel tank. I did not save the non return valves, in the return line of the XJ6. I don't think they are necessary on the Classic 120 since the return enters the top of the tank. The XJ6 fuel tank changeover switch is not required . There is a non return valve and air bleeding manifold between the fuel pump and the fuel filter. I believe this is an anti flooding device and is probably best fitted in the Classic 120. I stripped the pipe work off of the fuel pump and the fuel filter. the fuel filter has a triangular shaped bracket, fitted with a rubber foot, welded to it. This needs to be cut off at the top close to the weld At the bottom weld the bracket is bent down to form and additional supporting bracket The rubber foot and surplus metal can be cut off. The additional metal bracket with the securing nuts can be removed and discarded from the fuel pump bracket. What you end up with is two brackets that hold the fuel pump and filter at an upward angle (to assist flow and prevention of air locks ) which can be mounted on a flat panel. Initial measurements and trial fitting show that the fuel pump and filter can be mounted on an aluminium plate approx 8" x 4". The Fuel pump is surrounded by foam rubber ( as an anti vibration mount) and clamped in a cylindrical mounting. My pump was showing signs of tiredness in that the rubber was not tight and the pump could move about. I fixed this by placing an extra layer of close cell foam around the foam bonded to the pump and refitting the bracket. The pump is once again secure but still protected from vibration .
|
|
|
11/07/2005 2hrs Fuel System |
I mounted the fuel filter and the fuel pump on the plate
using M6 x 20mm & rivnuts. I was exploring position of the pipe work in
relation to the plate and the mounting of the plate within the boot to
get the neatest installation, when I decided to call Nostalgia and ask a
couple of questions. Lucky I did, because Nostalgia no longer mount
the fuel pump and filter in the boot but on the outside of the boot well in
the RH rear wing space. Nostalgia also do not fit the air bleed manifold. In
some ways this makes life simpler since the majority of he pipe work is now
routed outside the boot well. Luckily my mounting plate will fit in the new
position without alteration. I will need to make some standoffs to allow for
the rivnuts. All the components and pipe work need to be within the
bottom line of the boot floor. (i.e. Nothing hanging down.). I've yet
to make up my mind about tank outlet which protrudes in to the boot. I
am going to investigate if it is possible to bend it such that there is no
pipe work within the boot. |
|
|
13/07/2005 4hrs Fuel System |
I've made some 15mm standoffs for the plate. After lots
of trial fitting, to get the position right, I've drilled the RH side of the
boot well to match the plate. I've made 4 mounting studs for the plate,
using M6 countersunk screws, a countersunk penny washer, plain penny washer,
to sandwich the fibreglass, secured with a plain nut. I fitted the standoffs
over the studs, followed by the plate and secured the assembly with plain
washers, spring washers and plain nuts. I've obtained a disposable
type pre-filter for the line between the tank and the pump. I now have
to work out how to mount it, securely. I have been working on using
braided fuel hose for the installation. It does not look possible to
bend the outlet of the tank , which means I will have to use the entry in to
the boot top cover I made earlier and have a short length of pipe exiting
the boot well to the fuel pre-filter. I've not decided on the route
yet or how to attach it to the tank. It may be possible to use a compression
fitting and screw connection. I'd be happier with a metal pipe in the boot
as it is less likely to get damaged. I'm also toying with the idea of using
a length of copper tube secured under the tank support as the feed to the
pre-filter and then change to braided hose once it is in the vicinity of
pre-filter rather than run braided hose all the way. However I'm
conscious of the fact that the more joints there are the more chance of a
leak there is. Overall I'm looking for a neat, tidy and safe
installation. |
|
|
Total hours this month = 30 hrs |
Total hours to date = 1160 hrs |
|
 |
 |
|
