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Date |
Event |
03/01/2004
&
04/01/2004
8hrs
Brakes
Centralising Brake Calipers
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I began by measuring and
marking the position of the "T" piece for the rear brakes, with the
intention of starting work on fitting the brakes. Whilst working on this,
standing within the chassis and looking towards the diff, I noticed that the
right brake disc was not central to the brake caliper. I had not seen it
from this position before. It had to be rectified. This entailed
removing the RH hand brake mechanism, and the disc caliper,
dismantling the RH rear suspension removing the lower diff mounting plate,
unbolting the drive shaft from the brake disc, withdrawing the drive shaft
from the brake disk, finally removing the brake disk from the diff. I
removed and discarded the disc centralising shims (the disc was
too far outboard and needed to be closer to the diff. I cleaned the diff
flange, removing any paint. Reassembly was the reverse process. Once
reassembled I measured the position of the disc relative to the
caliper with a feeler gauge. There are two machined surfaces at the
bottom of the caliper which can be used as datum points. The gap was as
near equal as I am going to get it. I tested the LH brake disc in the
same way and found that although it looked central (using the Mk1 Eyeball)
it was actually 0.88mm to far inboard. Nothing for it but to dismantle the
LH brake, suspension and drive shaft. I measured the shims I had to
determine the nearest to 0.44mm (half the error to centralise it) cleaned
and fitted the diff flange and shims adding an extra shim to reduce
the error. Reassembled the LH Drive shaft, brake and suspension.
Measuring the disc position it was still not right. The error was reduced
but I had overcompensated. It was all dismantled again and a slightly
thinner shim fitted. This time, when it was reassembled, the error was
0.25mm. Much closer than originally but I had run out of shims to get
it any closer. I decided that this was probably within tolerance,
given that the caliper casting, discs, disc pad wear are not highly
machined close tolerance components. Wire locked the calipers and
refitted the hand brake mechanism.
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05/01/2004
1hr Pedal
Box |
Before Christmas I got a message from Malcolm @ Nostalgia advising
that they had had an SVA Problem with the pedal box and they thought
that mine was similarly affected. Today a message from Malcolm advised
that if the CLUTCH pedal was of the cut profile type (square
edged) and not forged it should be returned for replacement or modification.
Mine definitely looked like a cut profile type , so I dismantled if from the
box and packed it for posting
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06/01/2004
1hr Pedal
box |
The Clutch pedal was posted and then I got a
message to say it was the BRAKE pedal that was the problem. I removed the
brake pedal and packed it for posting. All is not a problem since I was
going to strip the pedal box for painting anyway.
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07/01/2004
1hr
Clutch
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The missing clutch forks arrived today. Stripped
and put in to de-rusting bath. Painted the pedal box with undercoat.
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11/011/2004
5hrs
Brake / Fuel Pipes
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This weekend I finally got
round to straightening the brake and fuel pipes ready for fitting.
Firstly, approximately straighten the pipe by
hand as follows. Firmly grasp the end of the pipe with one hand and pull
backwards on the pipe with the other hand, allowing the coil to unwind as
your hand slides backwards down the pipe. You may have to do this several
times but the pipe will safely straighten. With that length of pipe
reasonably straight, move your hands down the pipe away from the end and
repeat until you reach the far end of the pipe. You end up with a long
slightly curved copper tube with very slight bends in it where you have
varied the hand pressure on the pipe.
If you are bending 5mm brake pipe, with no
preformed ends, then cut a block of wood 45mm x 45mm x 5inches (130mm) drill
a 5mm hole down the centre of the cross section, the length of the block.
(You might have to work from both ends if you don't have a long enough drill
and meet in the middle - hopefully
) Using soft wood blocks I found it wasn't necessary to flare the ends of
the holes, but you could do so if you were worried about damaging the end of
the pipe Squirt some grease or WD40 in to the hole to lubricate it. Pass an
old (or odd) piece of tube through it to spread the lubricant around and to
avoid contaminating your "good" pipe. Put the block in a vice and insert the
end of the tube in to the hole. push until it emerges from the far end of
the block. Now pull the rest of the tube through. The tube will still be
slightly curved but many of the imperfections will have been removed.
If your pipes have preformed ends the procedure
is the same except. Cut 2 blocks the same size as before. Clamp them
together. Draw diagonals across the ends to find the centre of the
combination. Drill a 5mm hole where the diagonals meet. Again you may have
to work from both ends. When you have finished, unclamp the blocks. You will
have a channel in each block running the length of the block. To straighten
the pipe place one block on one side of the pipe behind the pre formed end.
Makes sure the pipe is lying in the channel Match the other block to it and
place the combination in a vice. Pull the pipe through the blocks as before.
10 mm Fuel pipes can be straightened in the same
way. Get them approximately straight by hand as above and then pass them
through a 10mm hole drilled in a block with the same dimensions as above.
The end product will still be slightly curved
over it's entire length and still have some slight kinks but these can be
adjusted as the pipes are fitted in to their retaining or "P" clips on the
chassis.
Using the XJ6 rear brake pipes as `a template I determined the beast
position to mount the rear "T" piece. I then set about bending the new
rear brake pipes in to an elongated "S" to connect between
"T" piece and the brake calipers. Care has to be taken with the shape
to ensure adequate clearance around the handbrake mechanism under all
operating conditions.
|
17/101/2004
4hrs Brake
/ fuel pipes
Pedal box
Upper Steering column |
Today
has been a "bitty" frustrating day. I had been doing some planning on pipe
runs and fitting during the week with the intention of fitting them
today. However I discovered that if I was to use the multi-pipe clips
supplied by Nostalgia I would have to drill through the strengthening pieces
between the floor and the chassis. or bend the pipe to run under them.
Neither option looked easy to do using the clips supplied.
I decided I needed more information sort sort out the route and the
positioning of the clips. I could work it out for myself but I am not
familiar with the type of clip, so sent an e-mail to Malcolm.
The rest of the day I did small jobs
getting ready for the return of the pedals cleaning up the pedal
fulcrums, sorting out where the scuttle brackets, steering brackets fit and
modifying the XJ6 upper steering bracket. cleaned up the clutch forks and
prepared it and the steering column bracket for painting.
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25/01/2004
4hrsPedal box |
This weekend I have been
installing telephone cables , ADSL modems and software because we are
going over to Broadband. Broadband is now up and running time to work
on the car. The pedals returned from Nostalgia on Thursday so today I
reassembled the pedal box and fitted the clutch master cylinder. I took a
little while to work out how the return springs fitted to the pedal. I had
no photographs from when I took them apart, relying on my
memory.....Fatal mistake!
The HM was not much help either.
I eventually worked it out and completed the fitting. I added a couple of
copper washers to the pivot shafts to take up a little side play when the
pedals were fitted. I made a gasket, from cardboard and copper
gasket silicon sealer , to fit between the master clutch cylinder and the
pedal box. Last job of the day was to remove the brake reservoir from
the master cylinder and commence cleaning up the master cylinder with a wire
brush to prepare it for refurbishing.
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31/1/2004
3hrs
Pedal box & Pipework |
This week, snow, wind and rain
have seriously curtailed work on the car . I did manage to get some UNC
bolts for fitting the pedal box and some self tapping screws for the fuel /
brake pipe clips. I'm still undecided on the beast way to tackle this job to
end up with the vision I have in my head. I will get it right
eventually. Also I had a Broadband / Computer problem which was
demanding my time and nagging me to get it fixed. I did manage to dismantle
the master cylinder and place it in a bath of hydraulic fluid to clean it,
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Total Number of Hours this Month =
27 |
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Total Number of hours to date =
478 |
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