Heater Fan Cowling
It's time to catch up with all that
has been happening in the past week and a half. In truth not a lot but
little things that were both time consuming and to some extent frustrating.
I found out why I have been having so much problems with the painting of the
heater fan cowling. I have been trying to do too many things at once and
fitting in the painting of the cowling in between. This meant that there
were longish periods between coats of paint. the crazing of the new coat of
paint was caused by the fact that the previous coat had started to cure.
Hammerite needs to be painted in not more than about 1-2 hours between
coats. I have stripped the cowling back to bare metal. Primed it
with "Upol Acid #8" etching primer and painted it with 2-coats of Hammerite
smooth black to complete the job all in one day, The components of the
bonnet catch are all painted and ready to fit but the weather has been
pretty awful and I've not braved having the garage door open to fit them.
The drivers door was more difficult
but only because I had restricted room, in which to work, on that side of
the garage. Having done the passenger door previously it was, of
course, easier the second time around. I marked the position of the
slot in the door using the edge of the door as the datum. I opened up the
slot drilling a 10mm hole each end cutting in between using a
combination of cutting wheel, pad saw . I positioned the paper template of
the lock , on the door, using the slot alignment and the edge of the door to
get the position correct. I marked the securing holes and drilled then out
using a 6mm drill. I tried fitting the lock with the modified ¼"
UNF bolts . It was obvious these were too long on two accounts., the
different thickness of the door and interference with the operating
mechanism. I had some 1½" x 1/4 UNF bolts which proved to juts the
right length. I changed the mounting bolts on both doors.
I found the most effective way to mark the slot in the "B" post for the
hasps or door strikers, was to use to remove the lock, close the door to
it's correct position. Use the door strikers from the XJ6 marked with
engineers blue and carefully placed from inside the door until they
touched the "B" post. The transfer mark indicated the position of the slot.
I backed this up by marking the position of the inside edge of the door on
the "B" post and transferring the measurements of the position of the
slot. The two methods of marking broadly corresponded. I drilled and
cut out a 10mm x 40mm slot in the "B" post. I fitted the striker plate
assembly through the slot in the "B" post from inside the wing and held it
in place. I closed and opened the door to check the operation of the lock.
It was at this point we learn from our mistakes. When I was fitting
the rear body to the "B" posts I neatly drilled the "B" posts for
equidistant rivet holes. I did not account for the position of the door
striker plates. I neatly managed to get a rivet exactly in place where
it interfered with the position and adjustment of the door striker
plates on both sides of the car. Nothing fro it but to drill out the
rivets and position them behind the line of the door striker.
I've yet to decide the detail of how I overcome this problem It may still be
possible once the final adjustment of the doors is done to reinstate the
rivets. I positioned the striker plate one again and using it as a
template drilled the securing holes i the "B" post. I finally fitted
and adjusted the striker plates for best operation of the door knowing that
the doors will need final adjustment when trimmed and painted.
Now it was time to go back to the
fitting of the bonnet striker plate. Having spoken to Nostalgia I
determined that the plate was best fitted centrally (fore and aft) over the
cross member. I measured the width of the cross member and transferred
this centrally to the underside of the plate. I clamped the plate to
the bonnet sides and adjusted it's position until the mark on the underside
of the plate was aligned (using a steel rule as a guide) with the
front of the cross member. To ensure the plate was parallel with the
top of the cross member in all directions I places a couple of 2½"
wooden blocks on the cross member and made the plate sit squarely on them
once the bonnet was in the closed position. Yesterday I drilled 4x 6mm
mounting holes in the side of the plate centred ½" from the edges. I
now drilled through these holes to mount the plate on to the bonnet.
Mistake number 2 had already happened. I found that in drilling the
lower rear holes in the plate I had not made an allowance for the fact the
the GRP return of the bonnet was angled so that the holes were missing the
fibreglass all together. I repositioned the holed and re-drilled then
such that they would meet the GRP. I now have two extra unwanted holes
in the bonnet slam plate but they will not make any difference to the
strength or be noticed by anyone else other than me. With the
slam plate firmly in place M6 x 15mm bolts , penny washers and nyloc nuts, I
needed to determine the position of the bonnet locking pin. I
fitted the bonnet lock keep plate and made a dummy pin from The spare
XJ6 locking pin. Removing g the spring and the central pin and replacing it
with a bolt. The dummy pin was placed, centrally on the keep plate and then
end of the dummy pin was marked with engineers blue. I closed the bonnet and
the transfer marked the position for the pin on the slam panel. I removed
the slam panel and drilled it to accept the pin in the indicated position.
Refitted the assembly and the pin was perfectly aligned. I set out to
mark and drill the position of the return spring and the operating cable
stop on the cross member. I did this by placing the lock mechanism on
top of the cross member measuring 80mm from the spring connecting hole
and this is the position of the spring retaining bracket. I was
proposing to use the cable stops from he XJ6 when I realised that I
couldn't because of the modifications to the catch operating mechanism.
I made a right angled bracket from 25mm steel strip 25mm x 40mm. I
drilled a 6mm mounting hole in the top and a 2mm pilot hole 30mm down from
the top to align the cable with the operating mechanism. This latter
hole will need to be opened up once I have made a ferrule to fit the end of
Total hours this Month = 19 hrs
Total hours to date = 1374.0 hrs