December 2004

Date Event


3 hrs


Rear Body / "B" Posts

Today was a mixture of ups and downs. I had decided that the bonnet needed pushing backwards on the hinges, so first thing I loosened the bolts and pushed it back, retightened the bolts. It is better but still not a good fit. However I decided to leave it and come back to it another day.  Next I set about finishing securing the "B" posts to the rear body work. This was an easy matter to drill the metal backing plate and the body and riveting in place.  Lastly I began to work my way around the back of the car to check the security and alignment. I was underneath the car and noticed that the bottom edge of the boot lid was not parallel with the chassis cross member. There was a difference of  10 - 15 mm between the drivers side (too low) and the passenger side. I spoke to Chris at the factory to determine where the discrepancy might be, because there is a lot of variation between the various bits of the rear bodywork, rear wins and the boot lid.  I think I understand the problem but I need to move the car forward in the garage to get a good square view of the back. I expect to find that the rear body is slightly low on the driver's side. If it is it should be possible to unbolt the rear of the body on the driver's side, slot the securing holes in the GRP, raise the body slightly and re-secure.



Front Suspension Anti Roll Bar


My birthday and the Christmas festivities have kept me out of the garage for the past 10 days.  The ARB arrived from Nostalgia last Monday.  Nostalgia have finally got to the bottom of why the original one wouldn't fit.  It seems they are bent on a jig but in the process not only is the ARB heated so is the Jig.  The solution is to reposition the mounting holes for the ARB mounts on the chassis by drilling new holes 14mm further forward.  I have to say that when I tried to fit the original ARB back in June and came across the problem that the ARB was too close to the suspension, my first inclination was that the holes in the chassis were too far back. I had mentioned it to Chris Bowyer but was reassured that they were in the right place since they are jig drilled and were exactly the same as another vehicle we compared mine too. This  weekend I've started to fit the new ARB.  I put masking tape on the chassis so that I could clearly mark it.  Positioned the keep plates and bolted them in place. Marked the outline of the keep plates on the masking tape. Removed the keep plates and marked the masking tape 14mm in front of the front edge of the keep plates position. I positioned the keep plate up to the new mark. Using the keep plate as a template I marked the position of the mounting holes on to the masking tape. this gave me the approximate position, fore and aft for the new holes. Then using a try square and a steel rule I made sure the holes were in alignment with the original holes and exactly 14mm further forward.  Before drilling the holes it was necessary to remove the front chassis bung and remove the inner keep plates. It is not necessary to remove them completely, besides it is difficult with the body already fitted.  You can tap the heads of the mounting bolts to free the plate (the waxoil internal to the chassis will act like glue) then slide it forward, as well as turning it on it's side to give sufficient clearance to drill the chassis.  I marked the centres and drilled a pilot hole the finished it off with a 10 mm drill.  I drilled the font hole first and positioned the keep plate  with a mounting bolt to check that the rear hole was aligned with the position marked on the masking tape. Satisfied with the position I drilled the rear hole. Slid the inner keep late in to position and checked that the holes lined up and could be secured with the mounting bolts.  They lined up perfectly. I repeated the procedure for the other ARB mounting rubber.  The mounting and keep plates have got a bit tatty with repeated fitting and removal so I've given the a coat of paint to freshen them up and left them to dry.



Front Suspension Anti Roll Bar


Fitted the ARB. the procedure was fairly simple. I removed the support turrets from the lower mounting on the lower wishbone. Loosely fitted the turrets to the ARB. Then refitted the turrets to the lower wishbone mounting points and secured finger tight. With both sides mounted this way the ARB adopts a neutral position.  I placed the rubber chassis mounts on the ARB and moved them so that they were aligned with the chassis member.  I fitted the keep plates and the "U" clamps around the rubber mounts. It only took a small amount of persuasion to align the bolts with the holes and screw up a few turns., to hold it whilst I worked on assembling and locating the other chassis mounting bracket.  The ARB was now in place. Using the Mk1 Eyeball, I checked the alignment was equal,  on the turrets each side and equidistant  in relation to the chassis mounts, as I tightened all the bolts until it was finally fitted.  The bolts will need checking with a torque wrench at a later stage.




Oil Cooler

Stainless Exhaust Front Pipe

Christmas is coming! Over the past week progress has been slowed by the forthcoming seasonal holiday. I have spent some time working on the Westfield Web site because it had moved servers and needed to be got up and running again. not exactly productive as far as the Jaguar is concerned but it did give me time to think about the radiator and oil cooler. I had intended to use the radiator and the engine oil cooler from the donor car.  I fished them out of the shed where they had been stored and studied the build manual again. I examined the radiator which had a rather nasty blemish in the core caused by a large stone or some ham fisted mechanic during its life in the XJ6. Never the less it was sound.  Comparing the radiator with the fitting instructions in the manual there was obviously some discrepancy. the XJ6 radiator was held in place by some pegs inserted in to rubber grommets. The build manual referred to tapped screw holes in the side. There were none on the XJ6 radiator.   I called  Malcolm at Nostalgia. the original intention was that the radiator was part exchanged for a modified one but this is no longer the case a fact that had passed me and the build manual bye.  The outcome is  the radiator is now special Nostalgia item and I needed to buy one.  The order placed I asked about the engine oil cooler.  This item is no longer fitted by Nostalgia because of persistent trouble with oil leaks. I would still like to use it and must now decide whether to do that or blank the connection off on the engine oil filter block.   Malcolm also advised that if I'm going to use it to replace it and fit new oil pipes.  Which brought me to my last question about stainless exhaust front pipes.  The XJ6 front pipe is solid but rusty.  I considered buying a new one or replacing it with a stainless steel one.  I asked Malcolm about sourcing a stainless one on the grounds of longer life and better appearance. Malcolm said that stainless ones resonate (ring) and therefore not used for noise reasons.  I must admit that most of the stainless exhaust companies I looked at, supply complete systems but without the front down pipe. Since a new steel one would cost 50+ I decided to refurbish the existing one with anti rust treatment and high temperature paint.



Exhaust Front Pipe

The Land Rover needed an MOT and Road Tax today so while that was being done I finished off the Christmas shopping. I returned to start on cleaning up the front down pipe It looked sound enough as I started cleaning the surface rust off with a wire brush. I was examining the bottom flange that connects to the stainless exhaust system when I noticed a hairline crack and some perforation where the flare joins the down pipe.  It was only slight but not worth trying to repair since it would only reoccur later.  I ordered a new one from Parts Direct this afternoon and I should get it tomorrow afternoon.  Back again from ordering the new down pipe I started to clean up the exhaust manifolds. I removed most of the surface rust and placed them in a bath of Kurust overnight.  The reason for doing this, besides giving me the best surface for painting, I have asked for a quotation from "Camcoat " for coating the exhaust manifold  and the new down pipe in Cermakrome. a ceramic chrome finish that will stand up to 750C

Total hours this Month =10 hrs


Total hours to date = 895 hrs