3hrs

Fuel Tank

I've spent quite a while mulling over the fuel tank , fuel pump and filter interconnection. I decided that the inline pre-filter that I had was not ideal for the job.  Whilst on holiday in North Somerset I called  in to Nostalgia and picked up the Sertec filter that they use.  the installation is improved by using this filter because it is more compact and the filter element is replaceable. I refitted the boot well top anf temporarily fixed the sides of the boot well in place today using spire bolts.  This was so I could determine the position of the exit hole for the tank outlet.  I trial fitted the compression fitting to the tank ,but I had some doubts on the clearances and routing of the pipe in the vicinity of the diff and disk brakes, so I abandoned this idea.  I decided to use the simple way and fix a length of  rubber fuel pipe to the tank outlet.  This is easy enough to do, in principle, but I've stopped while I work out the best routing for the pipe
 

5hrs

Fuel Tank

At last I think I've broken the back of the fuel tank and pump plumbing.  Its taken a lot of thought as well as trial and error, but I think I'm there.  The result is a culmination of ideas and discussion with Simon at Nostalgia.   I've abandoned the complex solution in favour of the simple one.  I've connected a length of copper pipe to the tank outlet with a short length rubber hose.  The hose is bent in a right angle, as tight as possible without flattening the hose. The copper pipe is routed across the inside of the boot and out through a hole in the front RHS of the boot well.  The copper pipe has been shrouded in 3/8" rubber hose to protect is as it passes thought the GRP of the boot well. the copper pipe (and hose shroud ) is bent to follow the external contour of the boor well as close as possible, ensuring the copper pipe is not kinked or flattened.  I've cut the copper pipe off in front of the mounting plate for the fuel pump. Next I've connected a length of rubber fuel hose to the copper pipe and routed this under the fuel pump mounting plate to the in line pre filter.  I still have to work on securing the fuel lines and pre-filter to the boot well and make the final connection of the pre-filter to the fuel pump.

5hrs

Fuel Pump

I connected and secured the pre filter to the sides of the boot well. Using 5/16" fuel pipe there is enough flexibility in the pipe to secure it, using "P" clips either side, and close to the filter to give it maximum support.  I then cut the remaining flexible pipes to size to connect the pre filter to the fuel pump, using the adapter I made earlier to make up for the difference in pipe size.  Lastly I cut a new length of pressure (240 psi) pipe to connect the fuel pump outlet  to the main fuel filter. I made a bracket and secured this to the fuel pump / filter mounting plate then secured the pressure pipe to the  bracket with a "P" clip, to make sure the pipe was secure and could not come in to contact with other components.  The installation is not bad, fairly neat and should be easily to maintain.   If I have a criticism of it is that it contains too many joints and therefore, jubilee clips to look really tidy.  Perhaps a winter job after SVA when the build is finished. I still have to connect the outlet of the main filter to the feed to the fuel injection, the return to the top of the tank and the atmospheric vent. once all that has been trial fitted I can finish fitting the boot well.

2hr

Boot Bridge

I took the opportunity when I was at Nostalgia last week. to see how much flexibility there was at the centre of the boot bridge once the stays were fitted. The vehicle I looked at also had the filler panel fitted between the boot bridge and the boot well top panel.  There was still some movement, about ¼", which was about the same as mine.  I refitted the boot bridge stays today, ready to make the final connections to the fuel system.  I'm still toying with the idea of  riveting or bolting  the boot bridge support panel to the body to give a little extra support at the centre. I don't think it will place any undue stress on the body, providing the hinges and boot lid are free moving with no catching or binding. 

4hrs

Boot Well

I dismantled the fuel system in the rear offside wing. disconnecting all the pipes so that I could remove the top panel of the boot well. I removed the boot well itself  and finally the slam panel.  I opened out the holes drilled in the rear cross member to fit the slam panel and fitted them with 5mm Rivnuts.  I drilled out to 4mm clearance the holes in the chassis to fit the sides of the boot well.  I'm undecided whether to secure the sides of the boot well with rivnuts and countersunk screws or  large headed pop rivets.   Whist the boot well was out I tried fitting the fuel hoses to the copper pipe that run the length of the chassis.  I managed to fit the fuel feed, but it was a tight fit and only the minimum acceptable amount was pushed over the copper pipe and secured with a jubilee clip. the return pipe fitted easily on to the tank but could not be pushed far enough on to the copper return pipe.  I left it while I had a thin about it.  I decided the movement of of the support plate on the boot bridge rubbing on the body as the boot lid opened and closed, causing the boot bridge to flex, was more damaging than securing the support plate to the body.  I removed the support bracket drilled it to accept a 4mm Rivnut in the top.  Before fitting the rivnut I refitted the bracket and drilled through it in to the boot aperture flange,  I fitted the rivnut and fitted the support bracket.  I countersunk the hole in the flange to accept a 4mm countersunk screw.  The screw will not be seen on the finished car as it  will be covered by the seal around the boot aperture.  the end result is the flexing of the boot bridge is eliminated
 

5hrs

Fuel hose

Boot Well

Slam Panel

I'm convinced that the High pressure fuel hose I have is too small to fit the copper tubing. I lost a little time coming to this conclusion and researching a suitable alternative.  I think I have found a suitable alternative from SPEEDFLOW.  I'll place an order with them tomorrow.   I went back to the fitting of the boot well and realised I needed to do another trial fit to countersink the bolts securing it to the slam panel and to complete the fitting of the slam panel. Once the boot well and slam panel was in place I temporarily secured them with spire bolts at the side and M5 Pan Head screws to the slam panel and cross member.  I then removed the pan head screws one at a time to countersink the hole in the boot well combing and secured with M5 x 25mm countersunk screws.  I then clamped the slam panel to the underside ot the boot well and drilled through the floor securing holes in to the slam panel. I temporarily secured the slam panel to the boot well using M5 bolts. Ultimately it will be secured by the floor securing bolts.  I need to make some slam panel side closing panels. These small "quadrant" panels are described but not shown in the build manual. I think I understand them, but I need to talk to Nostalgia to determine if I am right or exactly how and where they fit and are secured.   During the day I have been painting the fuel system stand off plate and brackets and fitting all this other stuff in whilst I've bee waiting for them to dry.
 

8hrs

Fuel Hose / Fuel Pump

Boot Well / Slam Panel

I ordered some fuel hose from SPEEDFLOW and while I was at it I ordered some stainless steel overbraid and hose end covers. These last two items are really necessary  but It will improve the appearance of the fuel pump  installation and pipe work.  I've completed the paint job on the mounting plates and covered the pipe work in the overbraid. I decided to mount the boot well with stainless countersunk screws.  I removed the boot well, again to put Rivnuts in to the chassis to secure the sides of the boot well.  There are times when building the car that lots of work is being done with very little to show for it, then when final assembly is done you seem to make great progress.  The boot well is a case in point.  I removed the boot slam panel ran a bead of sealer on the chassis cross member and refitted it.  I ran a bead of sealer across the slam panel and down the sides of the chassis, where the boot well will fit. I loosely fitted the boot well.   Before securing it I  fitted the aluminium panel to the join the rear of the boot well together, making site it was sealed I then fitted the boot well to the slam panel with stainless countersunk screws.  I secured the sides of the boot well to the chassis and temporarily fastened the underside of the slam panel to the coot well using the floor board holes.  I then ran a bead of sealer around the top front edge of the boot well. I fitted the top boot cover with countersunk screws and penny washers. I ran extra sealer in to any gaps that were left.  Using a damp cloth I cleaned all the surplus filler from all of the edges of the boot well and left it to dry.  All of the trial work on the fuel installation now paid off  with all the components either mounted or pipe work cut to length and covered with overbraid.  It was a relatively simple matter to mount these on the car and connect them up.  I still have the return connection and the supply connection to make but I have run out of overbraid and must order some more.  I also have a little work to do to mount and secure the return pipe and the breather pipe to the tank. 

Total hours this month = 32hrs

Total hours to date = 1192 hrs