April 2005

Date Event
01/04/2005

2hrs

Front dumb irons

Radiator

I fitted the newly painted front dumb irons to the body mounting points.  I checked them for level and straightness with a level placed across the dumb irons. I fitted the front bumpers just finger tight. since we re-bent the ends of the dumb irons to fit the back of the bumper there is definitely no additional stress on the bodywork when they are fitted. I removed the left front bumper and shortened the outboard stud by about " because it was showing too much.   Fitted the RH radiator stay after painting.  It seems like the rivnut in the side of the radiator has either become detached or stripped a thread.  I can't fully tighten the bolt neither can I undo it.  I'll come back to it. It probably means stripping out the radiator again, cutting the bolt off. Attempt to remove the stud  or failing that drill out the bolt. then carefully drill out the rivnut and replace it.

06/04/2005

3hrs

Rear Dumb Irons

The penny has finally dropped!  I knew I was going to have to shim the upper bracket of the rear dumb irons to get the best fit.  I drilled through the chassis bracket in to the inner wheel arch to locate where the holes needed  to recess the fixing nuts on the bracket. This was necessary to get sufficient room to insert the shims.  the holes needed to be opened to 16 mm to accommodate the nuts.  It looked like I was going to have to remove the wing to do this because there was insufficient room to get a right angle drill and stepped drill bit in to position.  So I stopped and have been thinking it over for the past few days, whilst my brother was visiting.  That was when it dawned on me I have to use rivnuts to secure the bracket not plain nuts.  With rivnuts I would not need to enlarge the hole and thus would not have to remove the wing.  I  got some steel M8 rivnuts and fixed them to the brackets.  I found they were too long and preventing the bracket from being fitted between the chassis bracket and the bodywork. I timed about 2-3 mm off the back of the rivnuts so that they were the same depth as the plain nuts fitted previously. Working from inside the boot with a round file I opened up the holes in the bodywork so that they would accommodate the back of a rivnut easily. I Fitted the LH bracket with a 3mm shim and secured it  2 x M8 set screws, spring and plain washers.  The holes in the body lined up perfectly allowing the back of the rivnuts to recess in to them and  the 3mm shim to be fitted.  Refitted the dumb iron and at last it looks like it is correctly aligned with sufficient clearance for the bodywork and the boot lid.

09/04/2003

3hrs

Rear Dumb Irons

I  wrapped a length of cardboard around the distance piece and fitted it to the upper bracket.  with this in place as far as it would go I drew a line where it touched the body work.  Using the Dremel fitted with a sanding drum I gradually opened the hole until it fitted.  I used some "P40" to correct the hole slightly and left it to dry.   I turned my attention to the RHS I drilled the lower chassis bracket to fit  the dumb iron in exactly the same position as the LHS. I drilled the upper chassis bracket and fitted the maximum number of shims  I could.  Even with 8 mm shims fitted I was still not aligned, The upper dumb iron ( transition bracket) was too far inboard by about 5 mm.  It seemed that the problem was not one of distance but of angle.  I removed the shims and fitted 3 washers  to shim  the most rearward hole to 6 mm and no shims in the forward hole this angled the transition bracket and brought the threaded part of the bracket in to line with the dumb iron.
 

10/04/2003

3hrs

Rear Dumb Irons

The filler on the LHS has hardened.  I did the same for the RHS. Wrapped a length of cardboard around the distance piece and marked where it came on the body work, gradually opening the hole out until it fitted.  the correcting the earlier misaligned hole with some "P40".    Whilst this was drying, I started work on the LHS I opened out the hole very carefully at each stage trial fitting the grommet and the distance piece. I ended up taking out al the correction I had made with the "P40".  I was not disappointed by this it was better to go back to square one and get the best fit of the grommet. I found I needed to take more from the inside of ht body to get a satisfactory fit of the groove in the grommet. The grommet and distance piece are very tight and the top of the grommet looks a little pinched. I've decide to leave it like this for the time being whilst I decide what is actually the cause.
 

Total hours this month = 11 Total hours to date =1039